My 1992 LWB GQ Auto rear sags when I hookup the boat to the tow bar. The GQ has only traveled 90000kms but I suspect its done some towing as it had a fairly heavy duty tow bar fitted when I purchased it in Sept 09. I also have just had the auto rebuilt probably because previous owners did not operate the auto correctly when towing. It sags low enough that I can't get the jockey wheel down so that I can detach the boat trailer off the tow bar. I don't want to lift the truck, so what is the best solution? Cheers Herd
those poly air bags that go inside the spring seem to work real good
Yeah, but they leak and you have to keep topping them up, plus they restrict your articul;ation, but then you probably aren't worried about that. I would just go and get new springs, ones that are rated to carry loads and are a little stiff. I think they are termed progressive ciols, I'm sure someone on here will correct me if I am wrong. Al
looking at most shock/spring companies, they state that springs/shocks are rooted after 40000kms, so if you take thier advice and the fact you have done over double that, then maybe a simple replacement of shocks/springs and it will fix your problem.
80 Series on 35" creepies, manual with twin factory lockers.
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I forgot to mention that I want to preserve the level articulation that I have on this standard spec'd truck. I did wonder if those air bladers might restrict what articulation it has. Perhaps I should look at new springs/shocks? Cheers Herd
A 'good' suspension upgrade will transform the truck on road and off road. Get the springs suited to the load you carry and you be sweet. OME (ARB) do several different loads for the front and rear of a GQ so that is a very good place to start. One thing to be aware of is that your standard suspension has sagged so much and is so stuffed that a normal suspension upgrade will seem like a huge lift when it was the truck sitting low that is the problem.
Nissan Terrano coilovers, turboed VH45, Safari axles, and some other stuff.
Hi There, My solution is a little more laterial. Having worked with trailer boats for over 25 years, the ideal weight on a draw bar is 60-80kg. If possible move the axle/axles further forward thus reducing the draw bar down force. Hope this helps. Cheers.
I keep looking for the loose nut behind the wheel, but I can't find it!!
Hi sibainmud, Thanks for your advice, haven't considered the axle position. My Toko boat trailer rig has been designed with the axle further back than forward - probably was 60 to 80kgs at the tow ball until I attached the spare wheel bracket and spare wheel to the trailer draw bar. My son is an Engineer so I might get him to look at that. I know the rig weighs 1000kg with a full tank of fuel. However, moving the axle forward won't solve my immediate problem, that is, with the Safari unladened, the tow ball is too low to the trailer draw bar in some situations when the jockey wheel is wound up. I therefore have to fold the jockey wheel up a manually lower the draw bar onto the tow ball. With the age of the Safari being 17 y/o, travelled about 90,000kms, a heavy duty tow bar fitted by a previous owner, nowing that 1/2 of previous owners had a 2 tonne boat and having just rebuild the auto transmission - the evidence points to a truck that has towed some wieghty loads in the past and therefore is suffering from sagging springs. Sibainmud, I think your suggestion would be good for preventing future excessive wear on the Safari springs.
Hi, I've reopened the thread because I've just bought a new pair of rear standard height Koni 82-2348SP1 hydraulic adjustable shock absorbers of TradeMe. I understand these will be heavier duty than the OE fitted, suitable for towing but not for serious 4WD - just what is required, we only partake in shinny drives. I'm planning on gathering togetther the rest of the parts required over the next month or two when a good deal comes up and fit some time during spring. I replaced coils and shocks on 4 cars over the last 5 years so have a little experience in what is required - however the Safari is abit heavier that a 2L Primera. I have some questions. Will a set of coil spring compressors that can handle a car coil spring be heavy enoungh to cope with a coil of fa Safari? I've got rear coils on my shopping list ( the existing one a saggy), what other parts do I need to put on the shopping list?
To do the springs in a Safari is easy. Undo the shocks then jack the truck up untill the springs fall out. Fit new springs, lower truck down and do the shocks up. No spring compressers needed. The front may require a bit of effort if the bushes are new.
Nissan Terrano coilovers, turboed VH45, Safari axles, and some other stuff.
Hi, A couple of weeks ago I fitted the a new pair of rear standard height Koni 82-2348SP1 hydraulic adjustable shock absorbers and a 2nd hand pair of OE coil springs on the LWB GQ. I had the height of the coils checked out by a spring maker and they turned out to be still at the height as originally factory fitted to GQs. The GQ has only travelled 99k. The old coils were about 5 to 10mm shorter. I've set the shocks at max. hardness. The rear is now not as bouncey. However, the rear still sags a bit when towing the boat. Earlier in the thread it was suggested fitting some air bladders inside the coils. There is brand sold here called Polyair that Repco sell $550. They are sold in the USA as a brand called "Air Lift" and I think could be landed for approx NZD210. Has anyone sourced the kits from the USA and what is the kit number? The USA web sites don't list Ford Mavericks, Nissan Patrols or Safaris so I can't indentify the correct kit off the catalogues supplied on the USA web sites.
What about adjustable air shocks? they used to work fantastic on all my tow wagons. However I am not sure if they are still legal to use in NZ anymore. does anyone know if they are or not?
Don't stuff around with air bags, air shocks, centre coils etc. You have a Safari, there is some many really good direct replacement springs, just get the ones that suit. For less than your airbags you'll have new springs that will handle better and carry the load etc. And yes I'd suggest you get the OME ones that suit the load you carry and height you want. To be honest it will probably be cheaper than anything else and doesn't need to be certified.
Nissan Terrano coilovers, turboed VH45, Safari axles, and some other stuff.