As some of you may know i managed to kill my winch on the weekend. Its an EP9 Superwinch. I have dismantled it as for as the motor, but cannot get armature out of housing. It feels like the bearing in the end is all thats holding it, but before i get out the big hammer i thought i'd quiz you guys for any info. Have had a quick internet search and all i can find is a handbook that i already have that shows an exploded view of the winch, but with no detail as to how it comes apart.
How informed are we on this guys? Any help greatly appreciated as always
Delta 4x4 (PH: 377-0029) are the local agent for Superwinch - give them a ring ... if they can't help, they will be able to put you in touch with someone who can.
Good info to put in the tech section. But after persevering, swearing and lots of looking, i finally managed to get it to pieces and i found out why it wasn't working.........i think i had half of the mud from the river stored inside the motor housing. I can't believe a product designed for this sport isn't better waterproofed!!! However nothing a good rinse didn't fix Completed the repair/cleanout and now consider myself a superwinch expert on motor removal and installation
PS will have some pics of the dismantled housing showing the crap tomorrow.
Do you think you can make it more waterproof by way of the magic sikaflex?? Or is it just a bit of poor design, something you'll have to check regularly....
You need to check the g/box as it will be as full as well. This is why some of the competion guys pressurize their winches to help keep the crud out.
Only about 5-8 psi. The solenoids are not sealed either and need to be mounted up high, preferably in a clic-clac style box
J Top
I had a few probs with my T-Max winch doing the same thing. Unfortunately it seems that they need a certain amount of airflow to cool them. I have drilled a hole in the case to allow water to flow through it rather than collect in it. This also allows me to be able to clean it out and spray inside it with out dismantling it constantly. But the solenoid I seem to have fixed by mounting high as poss and using a rather large amount of silicone to seal the box. Overall seems like a bad design for something that is designed to sit on the front of a 4wd.
1991 Isuzu Mu - BUGGER Blew it up. Next> Landy Discovery - Sold (gone up to Wellington). - Landcruiser Prado - Bodylift, Snorkel, Tow Hooks, Simex Jungle Trekka 2's
H2o, Check the front of my Cruiser, receiver in front bar to take WINCH and WINCH in back all nice and clean. When ---- if I get it finished there will be a receiver in the rear bar as well ----- now thats another ROUND TUIT .
GET DIRTY,FITZY
Need any coaching with the liberal application of red-RTV for waterproofing - I'm your man . Been known to use it once or twice over the years ... old truck had so much plastered over the electrics it was unsinkable ! Even had to have a wee dabble after the last waimak run on current vehicle to prevent water ingress in an area that failed to "buff out".
i am blessed to work in an industry where waterproof products are a must Unfortunately most of my stuff is black so probably not as pretty to look at as the red silicone
Sorry Krawlr but what on earth was the point of that post - This is about waterproofing and pulling down an electric winch, not the electric vs PTO debate!!!
ok so when youre truck dies with an elec winch well it wont be long till the amps drain youre second battery and will prob move you another foot or too.
ive learnt the hard way bud and with you guys with plenty of rivers i would look at a tirfor over a elec winch anyday half the price double the reliablility .
cheers for that aaron, sweet, I might get me one of those, could be real handy for those "engine not running" situations. Anyone know how much to buy one in NZ?
Goose wrote:cheers for that aaron, sweet, I might get me one of those, could be real handy for those "engine not running" situations. Anyone know how much to buy one in NZ?
OK to get back on topic and away from the electric vs PTO debate (we all know both systems have their advantages and disadvantages, its a personal choice thing at the end of the day, a bit like tyres really)
After pulling down and reassembling the motor, finding it full of crap (do i need a permit from DOC or ECAN to take home this much dirt from the river?? ) i pulled the gearbox to bits and found much the same. My questions is.... What type of grease would be best to use when i reassemble it. A high temp grease i presume. But does it need to be anything super special?
You might get arrested for removing the riverbed without a permit!
I would use the high pressure molybendinum (I dont think thats spelt right but you get the idea) grease, its a black colour and is the same grease that goes in CV joints.
Aaron wrote:You might get arrested for removing the riverbed without a permit!
I would use the high pressure molybendinum (I dont think thats spelt right but you get the idea) grease, its a black colour and is the same grease that goes in CV joints.
I second that, use a high pressure moly-based grease - preferably a marine compund one which will have better resistance to getting washed out.
I haven't looked at these chinese winches yet, but it will most likely also be possible to put some sort of breathers onto the motor and gearbox to pressurise them to help keep the crud out. I might pull mine apart for a looksee...