We own a 2001 3.5 Pajero and the wife uses it to go to work. She finds it only gets 15-17 Ltrs 100ks is this normal ? .Would an after market ECU do much better and were to get one? Once I have this sorted then I can look at mods for off roading it or sale the boat and get some thing else. Live in Silverdale Auckland. Were is the best 4x4 club around here?
Cheers Kevin
after market ECU for 3.5 GDI Pajero
Re: after market ECU for 3.5 GDI Pajero
start with the basics if you havent already, oils, plugs filters (esp air)
see how it goes after that, im not 100% sure what others get from the 3.5 in terms of economy, but a good service will do it the world if it hasnt been done recently!
as for aftermarket ecu, or a re-map im not sure of they can be done, but im sure a mitsi guru will pipe up
see how it goes after that, im not 100% sure what others get from the 3.5 in terms of economy, but a good service will do it the world if it hasnt been done recently!
as for aftermarket ecu, or a re-map im not sure of they can be done, but im sure a mitsi guru will pipe up
i used to Cruise, now i PATROL
Re: after market ECU for 3.5 GDI Pajero
you could try this guy:
EFI-Tech www.ecu.co.nz 5 Douglas Alexander Parade North Harbour 0632
09-415 5559
i dont know much about him, but i hear he is very good at what he does. i have had 2 ecu repaired by him.
EFI-Tech www.ecu.co.nz 5 Douglas Alexander Parade North Harbour 0632
09-415 5559
i dont know much about him, but i hear he is very good at what he does. i have had 2 ecu repaired by him.
Re: after market ECU for 3.5 GDI Pajero
from what i've picked up from others i would say the rule of thumb is fuel economy with an aftermarket ecu will be worse.
biggest reason is the lack of fine tuning. easy enough to do good tune for open throttle for a race car, really hard to do all the finer points at all the various part throttles. the dyno time alone would cost more than the vehicle is worth.
also GDI's do a few tricks with the injection that i don't know if an aftermarket ecu can do.
far better off just fine tuning the engine.
cleaning out the intake is fairly critical with those as they have no fuel wash to clean the intake/valves.
even if you mod the engine, the single biggest factor in economy is the driver. if its the GDI with the "economy" light then try to drive with it on as much as possible.
also make sure you use the right fuel. mates early model GDI requires minimum 97 octane which no local gas station has!
biggest reason is the lack of fine tuning. easy enough to do good tune for open throttle for a race car, really hard to do all the finer points at all the various part throttles. the dyno time alone would cost more than the vehicle is worth.
also GDI's do a few tricks with the injection that i don't know if an aftermarket ecu can do.
far better off just fine tuning the engine.
cleaning out the intake is fairly critical with those as they have no fuel wash to clean the intake/valves.
even if you mod the engine, the single biggest factor in economy is the driver. if its the GDI with the "economy" light then try to drive with it on as much as possible.
also make sure you use the right fuel. mates early model GDI requires minimum 97 octane which no local gas station has!
Re: after market ECU for 3.5 GDI Pajero
I use to have a 94 3.5 Pajero. Wasn't a GDI, so bit of a different animal really. But with 33" Mud tyres it was usually around 15L/100km - which I thought was pretty horrible really. So I feel your pain at 17l/100km! :s Mine was a short wheel base 5 speed manual. I would guess if you had the LWB and usually drive around town stop/starting it would be a bit worse.
Things to check:
*As already mentioned by others, give the old girl a good service. Air filter in particular will have a significant effect on fuel economy.
Also check for Vacuum leaks and ignition problems - common fuel economy destroyers.
*If you have larger tyres fitted it is possible your speedo and hence odometer could be a long way out, mine was about 10% low. (at 100km/h actual, speedo showed 90km/h) So you might think your economy is worse than it actually is -
i.e: you stop to fill up and your odometer tells you you got 400km for your 60lt of fuel or 15lt/100km. BUT if your speedo is 10% out of wack you have actually travelled 440km for your 60lt OR in otherwords a slightly more acceptable 13.6lt/100km.
Might be interesting to get out the GPS and see what your actual speed is?
*An often overlooked item, but critical to good fuel economy is the humble Oxygen sensor. All things being equal you should get a warning light on the dash if your O2 sensor goes bad...but what if you dont? ECU/PCM defaults to running rich because it is a better option than your engine having a melt down from running lean. and results in your petrol bill going through the roof.
Before going to the crazy expense of getting a re-mapped ECU, I would be taking it to the local Mitsi dealer and get them to check the diagnostics for problem codes that might be getting thrown up.
Or if you are that way inclined - an O2 sensor a realitively simple thing to check - If you have a digital multimeter and want to give it a go there is lots of info around to tell you exactly what to do.
You will definitely want to get that sorted before you head offroad and start getting up around 20-25lt/100km!!
Things to check:
*As already mentioned by others, give the old girl a good service. Air filter in particular will have a significant effect on fuel economy.
Also check for Vacuum leaks and ignition problems - common fuel economy destroyers.
*If you have larger tyres fitted it is possible your speedo and hence odometer could be a long way out, mine was about 10% low. (at 100km/h actual, speedo showed 90km/h) So you might think your economy is worse than it actually is -
i.e: you stop to fill up and your odometer tells you you got 400km for your 60lt of fuel or 15lt/100km. BUT if your speedo is 10% out of wack you have actually travelled 440km for your 60lt OR in otherwords a slightly more acceptable 13.6lt/100km.
Might be interesting to get out the GPS and see what your actual speed is?
*An often overlooked item, but critical to good fuel economy is the humble Oxygen sensor. All things being equal you should get a warning light on the dash if your O2 sensor goes bad...but what if you dont? ECU/PCM defaults to running rich because it is a better option than your engine having a melt down from running lean. and results in your petrol bill going through the roof.
Before going to the crazy expense of getting a re-mapped ECU, I would be taking it to the local Mitsi dealer and get them to check the diagnostics for problem codes that might be getting thrown up.
Or if you are that way inclined - an O2 sensor a realitively simple thing to check - If you have a digital multimeter and want to give it a go there is lots of info around to tell you exactly what to do.
You will definitely want to get that sorted before you head offroad and start getting up around 20-25lt/100km!!
Re: after market ECU for 3.5 GDI Pajero
Oh yeah and forgot to say - what are the possibilities your O2 sensor is dead?
Well if you or the last guy has used a silicone gasket sealer that is not specifically labeled "Oxygen sensor safe", "Sensor safe", or something similar, and if it is used in an area that is connected to the crankcase - including valve covers, oil pan, or nearly any other gasket or seal that controls engine oil there is a chance it will be dead.
Leaded fuel will ruin the O2 sensor in a short time. If a car is running rich over a long period, the sensor may become plugged up or even destroyed.
Undercoating, antifreeze or oil on the *outside* surface of the sensor can kill it.
Well if you or the last guy has used a silicone gasket sealer that is not specifically labeled "Oxygen sensor safe", "Sensor safe", or something similar, and if it is used in an area that is connected to the crankcase - including valve covers, oil pan, or nearly any other gasket or seal that controls engine oil there is a chance it will be dead.
Leaded fuel will ruin the O2 sensor in a short time. If a car is running rich over a long period, the sensor may become plugged up or even destroyed.
Undercoating, antifreeze or oil on the *outside* surface of the sensor can kill it.
Re: after market ECU for 3.5 GDI Pajero
Thanks to all that replied but could not find a fix, sent it back to the dealer we got it from and they couldn"t find the problem ether so they have replaced it with a Jeep Cherokee KJ diesel. Wife loves it .
Thank's again
Kevin
Thank's again
Kevin