Offroad-Express

How often is a good time to strip down your manual hubs and check them over? Last weekend on a trip we were going through a bit of water so just trying to check everything over oils ect.

Also what does everyone use for steering damners? Looks like mine is still the standard one, 1987 fj70. Whats a good aftermarket one?

most makes are good EFS Ironman most probably all same manufacturer different paint job

I use a small amount of EP90 oil.

I try to do most servicing with my 5k oil change, lube all grease points, rotate tyres, drain fuel filter, check air filter etc.
Its here where I go over my hubs, depending on how much mud/water they have seen. Dont use grease with your hubs, the ep90 as mentioned is a good choice.

Interesting comments, and maybe just in time as I'm tearing down the hubs today.
I have always used ep2 grease with no ill effect.
Whats the rationale behind 90w oil?

terrano wrote:How often is a good time to strip down your manual hubs and check them over?

after a few years you get to know your truck and which parts suffer water ingress more than others manual hubs usually aren't too bad for ingress compared to the rest of the drive train, easy way to check them for water is to pop the face off and have a quick look only takes 2 minutes things like the wheel bearing hubs are more susceptible to ingress next time you've got the hubs off check the spindles where the oil seal runs after 20 or 30 years the spindle starts to wear where the oil seal runs and starts letting water through the V groove worn by the seal or it can get worse if the face where the oil seal runs has trapped water and the surface has become rusty and pitted it'll rip a brand new oil seal up in about 10 second flat letting all the nice water straight into the bearings

Well, I had a bit of fun today.

Hubs fitted are not stock, but SurperWinch's, so the haynes went right out the window (and it's all in bloody newton meters!). The superwinch site says to use 30w oil, and that they will not warranty it if grease is used??

None-the-less I filled them both up with EP Blue - the result, quiter engagement, no heat (they were smoking prior, which is why I had to tear them down), anti-seize on all the bolts, job-done.
It will have to be done again as one oil seal was poked - the spring cut clean through the rubber, fortunatley no damage to the axle shaft, and I don't have cup socket the right size for the locking nut (53mm) so torqued by feel.

I've also bled both brake and clutch, replaced engine oil, filters, boxes and diffs, ran injector cleaner through it last week so It's had it's birthday and ready for action.

Sounds like a good days work, this is all that i need to do as well.

Yes, well, it would have been a morning's work, except that I apparently forgot to torque one of my wheels back on. - Watching your front left wheel overtake you and then head for the hills, is quite the experience!

Pah!, who said brake rotors needed to be round anyway!

MihiT wrote:Yes, well, it would have been a morning's work, except that I apparently forgot to torque one of my wheels back on. - Watching your front left wheel overtake you and then head for the hills, is quite the experience!

Pah!, who said brake rotors needed to be round anyway!

Helps clear the mud from the calipers....