Offroad-Express

Iknow it wasn't a weekend achievment but a day off work is a day of work right

Girlfriend went out for most of the day so i managed some garage time, result is the hilux now has an engine in it again


And a gearbox


Looks like I'll have to modify the sump for some diff clearance

looking good n i thought i did ok putting new bushes in front sway bar only to find out lower suspension bushes r stuffed as well

lookin good dude, nice tidy job

all i did was drive round the block down by the river over logs and shit enjoying my cool new seat

Good work Lolyf,,Hope you know good auto sparky to sort out that birds nest in the corner of the engine bay...

I had Monday off, so a four day weekend for me

Pulled my front diff head out to look at the locker and see what was up with it not unlocking. Think i figured it out

So i decided to pull the wheel bearings out, regrease them, and re-fit them, regrease the CV's, regrease the kin pins,replace a couple of oil seals, replace the front shocks, replace the water pump, replace the batteries, clean up the seals on the swivel hubs, fitted front tow hooks to their new position and a bit more stuff.

Can't put it back together untill i get an email back from powertrax.com as to whether i can get replacement parts for the locker

Oh, and i managed to put 4 holes in the radiator while tryin to take a short-cut

lolyf: is that an elec locker in your front diff?

DieselBoy wrote:
Oh, and i managed to put 4 holes in the radiator while tryin to take a short-cut

BWahahahha...ohhh the pain !, was wondering where you went to. go see dion at coombs and rennie on angelsea st opposite ebbets, tell him i sent you.....he may stop laughing long enought to repair it for you...get it flushed while your there

Ya, ooops

Was just about to send you a text to see where you got yours done

Lolyf, you should look for a rear sump for your 1UZFE, that might solve all your problems.

Apparently the rear sump gives better oil pressure on hill climbs as well.

Matt.

I replaced my leads today and took the new ones for a test in some deep water, they work great

Went into Loch Katrine. Got into the Bailey Bridge where you first meet the Hurunui and surf was over heating, topped up the overflow and it sucked up a fair bit. Then carried on and it started heating up again up the next big climb. After that it was fairly good provided I didn't put it under too much stress. At Katrine two of us were playing on the steep shingle tracks up a bank. After that it was very hot again (plus I wiped the mirror off - bah, it wasn't an original anyway).

On the way out, if I kept it up to speed to keep the air flow it was ok but when I turned up the Kowhai on the way home it shot up straight away (figure the heat of the road travelling caught up with it) had to cool it before going on, shot up again untill It got wet in a few river crossings and dropped suddenly to normal.

I have noticed it getting pretty hot under the bonnet after even short runs. I'll do a radiator flush but what other areas are worth checking for over heating? (no bubbling in radiator so hoping the head is ok)

Are the radiator fins clean? If they are blocked then you get no airflow through the tubes and it overheats quickly.

Matt.

water pump and thermostat aswell

well it wasn't quite yesterday
but today i went to get some parts for my mercedes car from startech in manukau (we got sent home early because the worksite was to wet)
so ordered some suspension bushes and a parts for the gearshift linkage on my gearbox
and then i asked him about a PTO for the g wagen found out the guy i was talking to used to own a 230gd when he was in south africa he said it was gutlesss but it went everywhere anyway back to the story he didn't realise there was an option to put a PTO on but looked in the parts catalogue for me and there it was only about $3500-4000
hmmm don't think i will bother with that

mudzilla wrote:Good work Lolyf,,Hope you know good auto sparky to sort out that birds nest in the corner of the engine bay...

That's not wireing, the trucks been sitting that long it actually is a birds nest

WACKO, Yes that is an e-locker. It's a hi pinion from an 80 series regeared with 4.88 ring and pinion from a prado.

Mattman, If you happen to come across a rear sump let me know. It would be perfect for my application but they seem to be as rare as rocking horse shit

fweddy wrote:
I have noticed it getting pretty hot under the bonnet after even short runs. I'll do a radiator flush but what other areas are worth checking for over heating? (no bubbling in radiator so hoping the head is ok)

Viscous fan clutch - fan should not spin freely if you spin it by hand. Remove and replace silicone fluid
Thermostat - replace with OEM spec
Radiator Cap - replace with OEM spec
Radiator blockage - pressure flush/rodding/new rad

Also ensure you have eliminated all air from the system.

As explained earlier my 3Y is getting hot.

I find if I keep up to road speed its fine, although it is hot when I arrive.

When hill climbing or 4x4ing on rough stuff it heats up.

Just tonight I started it and drove from the house, round the corner to the shed (200 meters max) and the water was too hot to touch.

I flushed the radiator with a Wynns flush and then reversed flushed it.

I then took off the 'thermostat cover' to find its not, then found the thermostat on the inlet side of the engine (what's with that?)

When I drop the thermostat in boiling water it opens about 5mm is that right? Should it open more?

The radiator is in good nick, its 2 core but I guess its adequate. Fins etc are clean.

Haven't attacked water pump yet, not sure if to pull it out and check yet or refit everything and see if I have any results and tear that out later.

The radiator cap does seem odd. Its a real tight fit - how much effect would this have?

When engine is cold the viscous fan does spin freely, does that indicate that even when its hot and spinning its not really driving the air?

You should pressure test the whole system first to make sure it's holding pressure. Replacing the cap and thermostat is pretty easy and cost effective.

When it's hot you should hear the viscous fan, it should be moving a lot of air especially if the motor is pulling 1500rpm or so.

If it hasn't had one yet a water pump and viscous fan is probably needed although this might not be the only problem. At high km's the fan stops locking up and the water pump impellor wears down and reduces it's efficiency.

Matt.

Mattman wrote:You should pressure test the whole system first to make sure it's holding pressure. Replacing the cap and thermostat is pretty easy and cost effective.

When it's hot you should hear the viscous fan, it should be moving a lot of air especially if the motor is pulling 1500rpm or so.

If it hasn't had one yet a water pump and viscous fan is probably needed although this might not be the only problem. At high km's the fan stops locking up and the water pump impellor wears down and reduces it's efficiency.

Matt.

Thanks Matt

I've got me a new thermo and rad cap (as I expected the new spec rad cap is different to the one in it!).

Also went to see the Lineside guys and although didn't know what to expect in the way of attitude and $ for some one mainly looking for advice but they were great (know one of the blokes in the cruiser side of things but had little to do with the hilux crew).

I took my viscous fan in and compared with a new one and sure enough mine is a bit sloppy and starting to weep. They could sell me a new set up or a solid fitting (fan always going). I looked at the bit in my hand and decided that I could soon make up a bracket to make a fixed fan. They even suggested welding the current set up to fix it as is.

Few questions. Anything against fixed fitted fans? Any one know if that casing of the viscous body will weld? (easiest/cheapest option).

I've flushed the rad and will replace the cap and thermo and will put it back together and see how that goes, if no joy it basically only leaves the water pump.

Didn't get any gaskets for the top hose mount and thermostat housing. how critical are these? will gasket goo work or is the pressure too high to muck round with that stuff?

thanks

If you are only driving it 200m from cold and it's too hot to touch then something is very wrong. Was it the top hose that was very hot?

You should check the temps at the bottom and top of the radiator to ensure that they are similar otherwise you might have a blockage in the radiator - flushing out with a hose won't remove all the material from unit.

Taking the radiator out and getting it professionally flushed and/or rodded out is a pretty straight forward.

For your fan, if you run it fixed then it will take a longer for the engine to get up to temp and create a bit more noise. You should be able to gas weld the housing up.

Also it's often worth fitting an after market temp gauge, the Toyota one's aren't the most accurate.

Good luck getting it sorted, not much will kill a motor faster than heat.

Matt.

If you have a fixed fan, it will spray water all over the place when fording...

Well I now have a fixed fan.

Been out there tonight and took the viscous hub apart and found a little grey slush and water inside. It now has three bolts to replace the slush and water so its a solid unit...

Was shot anyway so I'll see how this goes and may replace with something else later if it proves unsatisfactory... cost only a bit of time (most of that was finding three identical bolts and measureing out their position so as to keep things balanced)

One good thing about a solid fan in fording is when the wheels loose traction the fan can pull you through like a propeller?

Just have to do the top hose mount and refit the thermo but didn't jump to do that without the gaskets - do RC or SC have such things on the shelf? - any comments on gasket goo for these locations?

fweddy wrote:
I then took off the 'thermostat cover' to find its not, then found the thermostat on the inlet side of the engine (what's with that?)

This isn't as uncommon a design as one would think. It's critical you're installing the thermostat the right way round though otherwise it will never open.

Well I got the thermo and all that replaced and back together and running (copied gaskets with gasket paper, even Rga Toyota didn't know about the thermostat plate gasket). It's running fine, the fixed fan is defo noisier. and I figure the engine is taking longer to get up to tempo cause its taking longer to get up to speed, need to keep the revs up to get the temp up to get the speed up, but I don't like to over rev a cold engine...

All seems ok, the temp gauge is reading just below half which it normally was for open road running. so far it hasn't gone any higher but then I haven't done any hill climbs and only a little playing down the Ashley to see if it would heat up - but then I didn't go any thing to much as was by myself. Did find a stuck bluebird which was abandoned but not yet tampered with so notified the cops and turns out it was some boys who were reported causing a stir in Rga earlier in the day.

How's the easiest way to check the temperature is ok now without relying on the gauge (I turned the truck on from cold and it shot straight up to half and then settled down, so it doesn't seem trustworthy)

Other good news is it flew straight through a wof today too