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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

i need a turbo td42 manifold to help me mount this to my safari
i will keep you guys updated with my progress

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mike
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Post by mike »

Is that a truck turbo? Thing with big turbos is you generally need a lot of exhaust to drive them which equals lots of revs to get them spinning.

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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

its a digger turbo
its had the exhaust wheel changed
it spooled fine on a td27
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mike
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Post by mike »

safari_mulisha wrote:its a digger turbo
its had the exhaust wheel changed
it spooled fine on a td27


sweeeet then 8)
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

yeah sounded like a jet engine tho
boost will be set rather low to start with
and it will be intercooled
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Post by niblik »

a problem with big turbos in single form is the lag that can occur...

then, especially with a diesel, all ya power occurs at an increased rev and may not be too practical? and in an offroad environment where ya want useable torque...

just a thought..

will be keen to see this in application..

8)
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

yeah i only want low boost
it boosted fine on a td27
it wasnt on a much larger engine to start with so my td42 should be fine
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Shane
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Post by Shane »

best of lucking finding a TD42 turbo manifold,I havent been able to find one at this stage.

You can make a J pipe and use your stand manifold,works quite well.

Shane
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Post by doddzee »

Get hold of GQTROL, pretty sure he has a few manifolds unless he has sold them all by now.
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

goin to see mitch (gqtrol) this afternoon he hasnt got any tho
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TeLexs
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Post by TeLexs »

I have a turbo on my work hilux 2.8 just like your one , good bost all the time was doing 18 lbs but killed two motors , now pumping 8lbs and going strong, its of a skidder (purkins) .
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

they arnt the strongest motors tho
im looking at running less than 10psi

made a start on my manifold i just need a mig the old arc isnt very pretty
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

every things ready to weld now i cut my hand land night needed stitches so i called it a day at 11pm
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IcedJohnno
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Post by IcedJohnno »

Not sure which manifold you are trying to modify. I suspect if you have been attempting to use an Arc welder that you are working on the Exhaust manifold.

If the exhaust manifold is the factory one it will be made of Cast Iron.
Although there are special Cast Iron arc welding rods available I would not suggest you attempt to modify it this way for two reasons. 1) Welded CI turns as hard as diamond, well almost and it becomes very difficult to machine. 2) The cyclic heat stressing will cause the CI to crack even without any added stress, like the turbo hanging off it.

If you are looking at MIG welding C I, then you will also need specialised wire, probably a high tech gasless one that is expensive and not readily available. The most common welding option for CI is to braze it usually with a Gas plant, however Bronze gets very weak at the elevated temps that a N/A cast iron manifold runs at. If you try this with a Turbo-ed manifold the bronze will fall off very quickly.

A better modification plan would be to make a heavy Steel adapter to go between the standard Exhaust Manifold and the turbo inlet. Note both surfaces of the adapter will need machining on either a Lathe or a Milling machine to allow gaskets to seal efficiently.

Hope this saves you some grief
John
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

makin a new mild steel manifold im just tackin with the arc now
if it doesnt flow well i will use the placement of the flanges to make a jig for a tubular manifold
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Post by sig »

may sound funny but i used a hairdryer off a surf(ct-20) on my old patrol and it was awesome .not a high rev machine but awesome for towing and general offroad work ,boosted up real low and made nice smooth power to about 3200 rpm ,sold the patrol to my mate and now he hardly drives it because all his stockcar mates want it to tow their stockcars with. made a manifold out of waterpipe (with a slip joint ) ,ran a 2.5 inch exhaust all the way with no muffler (wasn,t that loud just throaty )and it was a machine ,towed my 40 on a trailer like having a poo and could still pass cars while towing.had to wind up the diesel a bit but hey who cares MORE POWER HO HO HO
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Post by tgaguy1 »

Putting a turbo on my TD42 is on the list of jobs I have to do as well.
I am going to make a exhaust manifold from Schedule 40 butt weld fittings from fletchers. I was quoted $3.67 for a 45deg bend, $ 4.88 for a 90 deg long radius bend and $ $4.72 for a 90 deg short radius bend. I figure by the time I add straight pipe and steel plate it should be about $100 all up. There is lots of info on the web about making manifolds. I have saved to my hard drive alot of it but forgot to save the web adresses. A google will find it all though.

One thing I have been told by many people is if you are turboing a manual, the standard clutch will not last the distance. The only clutch that will, is the "safari tough" clutch kit from BNT for about $1200 trade price!

If anyone has any cheaper solutions I would be very keen to hear.

Also you must run a big bore exhaust or you temps will be way to high.

My 2c worth.
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

tak the oil from where the pressure sensor is
its high pressure there than at the vacuum pump
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Post by GQTROL »

tgaguy1 wrote:Putting a turbo on my TD42 is on the list of jobs I have to do as well.
I am going to make a exhaust manifold from Schedule 40 butt weld fittings from fletchers. I was quoted $3.67 for a 45deg bend, $ 4.88 for a 90 deg long radius bend and $ $4.72 for a 90 deg short radius bend. I figure by the time I add straight pipe and steel plate it should be about $100 all up. There is lots of info on the web about making manifolds. I have saved to my hard drive alot of it but forgot to save the web adresses. A google will find it all though.

One thing I have been told by many people is if you are turboing a manual, the standard clutch will not last the distance. The only clutch that will, is the "safari tough" clutch kit from BNT for about $1200 trade price!

If anyone has any cheaper solutions I would be very keen to hear.

Also you must run a big bore exhaust or you temps will be way to high.

My 2c worth.


The last time we got a Safari Tuff clutch from BNT was two years ago, but trade price was $800. Alternatively, Waikato Brake & Clutch built the brass button clutch for the race truck for about $1k. DaveM started a thread on this subject just a week or so ago.
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Post by safari_mulisha »

got some more pics for you guys

i put both batteries on one side so i can mount a truck air filter in there
shouldnt make a huge difference with weight its just like having a heavier driver

took two night an 2 stitches in my finger to make manifold up
gas axe drill and mig were all that were used



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tgaguy1
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Post by tgaguy1 »

Nice work. How well do you think that manifold will flow compared to an extractor type manifold? Your setup looks way easier to build than what I was planning. I am very interested to see how it goes.
Keep up the good pics.
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

that alloy pipe between the turbo and intake was $2 for close to a meter its 2 1/2 inch
the 90 degree bend is off the intake to a holden astra cost $10
manifold is 5mm thick all round i made my own flanges and my mate welded it only because i couldnt at his sho because of OSH

i used old milking stainless for the snorkle and intake before the turbo
i will intercool it prob with a subaru water to air kit
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Post by safari_mulisha »

i get 8 psi with out turning fuel up
i will turn the fuel u and retry it i run out of fuel at 4000rpm
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Post by Shane »

Nothing like a bit of Kiwi number 8 wire constuction :D thats what makes us great.....

What rpm does it start to boost?
Adjusting fuel can make quite a difference to boost + performance.
Keep us posted

I hope to turbo mine in next month or so 8)

Shane
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

i could copy my manifold if u like...
they are very tight as the ports exactally match the manifold
i think the turbo needs the go a bit forward tho the room for an exhaust is very tight

my boost is controlled by fuel right now its not that high
not sure what rpm it boosts at it depends on load
i can boost from 2000rpm easy if its a steep hill
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Post by adventures_more »

which holset model is it ? i think the cummins 6BT 5.9 has a HX30 off memory & upgraded performance version is the HX35 ( from when i was doing a cummins project )
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

hx35

i get 15 psi easy now i can control boost by how much i plant it i can red line it with out goin past 10 psi but if i floor it the psi just shoots up
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Post by adventures_more »

thats the plain bearing isn't it ? how many rev's & load when boost kick in above 7psi ? need a big intercooler for that puppy ! which engine did it come off ?

Can you make custom turbo exhaust mandifolds out of mild steel ? seen alot out of 304 stainless !
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safari_mulisha
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Post by safari_mulisha »

most are mild steel i have made quite a few out a seamless steam pipe

its plain bearing i picked it up from a mate that rebuilds turbos

its a new rebuild so shes mint as
i can hit 7psi before 2500rpm

it is non intercooled at the moment but i will use a water to air cooler
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Post by adventures_more »

any photos of your other ones ? where do you get steam pipe from ? know of any sites on the net that cover this ? eager to know more -Looking at doing one myself for a possible compound or twin set up ( GT25 ) on a 13BT stroker
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