RANGIE BODY LIFT

Rangerat · Post by **Rangerat** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 1:56 pm

Bodge
Been looking at your body lift page on your web site.
Can work out the spacers and body brackets but what are all the other brackets for?
Remembering I only need the bits forward of the back wheels.
Did you put in longer brake lines? (I all ready have a 2" suspension lift so I may need to)
The chop is getting close to the end and I'll post an update soon ( lots of small stuff will add up to a big story)

Rat

Bodge · Post by **Bodge** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 2:08 pm

The squarish brackets are for the 'body rests' [don't know the tech terms]. Essentially there are a few spots where the body is supported but not bolted through. Two under the rear wheel wells [which you no longer need] and one under the seats both sides. A 50mm square piece of box steel should do the trick.

There are also extensions needed for the bolts directly under the seats that hook up to the inside of the chassis. My kit also came with brackets to extend the brakelines to save on new ones]. You can get longer lines which isn't that expensive or if you have just replaced the existing ones to get a warrant then you can go two ways:

1. Drill out the two spot welds on the little L bracket on the inside of your wheel wells. Take some of the bends out of the hard lines in your engine bay and then pop rivet the L brackets on the wheel well lower - in fact the height of your lift should do it.
2. make an L bracket to go on the wheel end of the lines that lifts the hard lines up by the amount of your lift. There is already a small factory one there - you can get 50 mm easily out of the hard lines at that end.

I will take some photos if you need them - just let me know.

The other brackets are for the radiator - only needed on some later models - ie. not mine. And other misc stuff - those are the main ones. The triangle ones are supports [that I never used]... bodgey

Goodluck - let me know about the pics if you want em...

bodge

Rangerat · Post by **Rangerat** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 3:24 pm

Cheers Bodge

The body rests (good enough name for me) are they welded on or bolted.

The rest seems fairly easy (yea right!)

Rat

Bodge · Post by **Bodge** » Wed Jun 04, 2003 4:48 pm

Body rests are welded to the chassis but not to the body... it just rests on them :wink:

The rest is easy - even I did it - and that definitely qualifies as easy....

It was the first time I had ever bled brakes.... oh and the clutch - oops forgot to mention that :oops:

the flexi clutch line is anchored to the body above one of the attachment points for the body - you have to remove it to get the bolt out - which means re-bleeding the clutch - a two person job. I know this cos I tried for 2 hours to do it by myself...

Truly though with what you have done recently this is a walk in the park...

bodge

Rangerat · Post by **Rangerat** » Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:50 am

Cheers

This job is now on the list as well. I'll be making up the spacers etc. hopefully next week.
As for the clutch it won't be a problem (it's an auto. ha ha)
Right if work don't get in the way I'll be spending this weekend in the shed.

Rat

Bodge · Post by **Bodge** » Fri Jun 06, 2003 1:41 pm

Auto - you lucky bugger....

Its not a ZF by any chance? Are you running the LT230 transfer case?

The reason I ask is - I remember you were looking at a winch and I have the hot tip for you - cheaper, lighter and more powerful than a Warn 8274 sitting on you front bumper...

Want to lose weight now - ask me how :mrgreen:

Bodge

PS. no duct tape will be needed - cable ties essential...

Rangerat · Post by **Rangerat** » Mon Jun 09, 2003 1:38 pm

Crysler 727 big mother super strong so I'm told. (Factoy fit on early rangies)
Not sure of the tcase but I don't think its a 230. Will check.
Tell me more (is it the MAXI-DRIVE HYD P.T.O?) cause I like the look of that.

Rat

Bodge · Post by **Bodge** » Mon Jun 09, 2003 6:03 pm

Damn spoilt my surprise - yes it is the Maxi PTO.

A mate has a Rangie with a ZF/LT230/MAXI PTO combined with a $300 Nissan 11000 lb PTO and it goes like crazy.....

I highly recommend it if you can fit it - cheaper and stronger than electric and less probs....

bodge

Rangerat · Post by **Rangerat** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 11:32 am

Bodge

99.9% sure I have a LT230. all checks out.
Tell me more about this nissan pto set up. (always wanted Hyd but the price was putting me off!)
Also (more questions) what should I be aware off when I do the lift?
Tcase lever, hand brake etc all tips and advice welcome.
Easier this way instead of finding these things when I'm jacking the body!!!!

P.S know of any nissan ptos lying around? (none here in Palmerston North)

Cheers
Rat

Bodge · Post by **Bodge** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 4:59 pm

Couple of things to watch out for...

H/L Lever - in my truck I had just enough room to engage it after the lift - but I had to take the knob off as it hit the floor before full engagement - but I can live with that. Some people have to nibble a bit of the tranny tunnel out to get engangement - not much. Don't know how different that will be for you with the different tranny.

Vacum diff lock air line not long enough - again maybe not an issue for you.

Radiator cowl needs modding as the radiator stays with the body and the fan stays with the engine - not hard.

Handbrake is fine.

Everything else stretches....

Check out my write up for the true comedy of errors... http://home.off-road.com/~bodgerover/

The maxi pto kit has an optional drive shaft kit which is well worth it. You need to chop the front cross member to get the driveshaft through which can be a bit of mucking around. The Nissan PTO's are common up here - let me know if you want one and I will source one up here for you....

regards,
Bodge

Rangerat · Post by **Rangerat** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 1:09 pm

Bodge

Confusion! is your mate running a full pto with shaft etc.?
The pto pick up on my tcase is on the rear face!
I was looking at running a full hyd winch with the maxi pto adaptor unit and a hyd pump.
The Rangie grows 2" this weekend (fingers crossed!)

Rat

Bodge · Post by **Bodge** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 1:19 pm

Yep he sure is.

PTO bolts onto the back of the transfer and shoots the shaft forward thru the front cross member to the winch....

Very cool.

Can get pics this weekend - I think...

Bodge · Post by **Bodge** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 1:23 pm

PS we did look seriously at the Hydraulic winch option.

Firstly its not cheap.

Secondly its slow unless you go big in the Hydraulic tank/pump department which is $$$ and expertise.

The guys running these winches [not rover] in competition spend a lot of time and money getting them right - great results in the end but the $$ make my credit card shake with fear...

The PTO is simpler and cheaper......

lowbox · Post by **lowbox** » Sun Jun 29, 2003 6:44 am

Most standard hydaulic winches are very slow, the fast ones need a higher flow rate which means more fluid which requires a tank and additional complications and expense. No advantage over a PTO at all, neither of them work when the motor is off...

Bodge · Post by **Bodge** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 6:00 pm

lowbox wrote:No advantage over a PTO at all, neither of them work when the motor is off...

Except that the PTO is cheap and simple by comparison... you can contemplate those saved hours and dollars while sitting there with your engine off waiting to be recovered....