Why do the Japs have so many 24vlt 4x4s?Are there any benifits over a 12vlt?Is either better than the other.I have a 24vlt myself.Seems OK to me.Read on a Canadian site a 24v 4x4 makes the truck NATO compatible.Anyone else heard this?Is a 24v better in nations that have harsh winteres?
Cheerz
Why 24 volt trucks?
24 is cheap
well its meant to be is my understanding.
doubleing the voltage halves the resistence (i think) there for meaning you need less thickness in the wire, half the thinkness to be precise.
So for cheep Jap cars when you are talking about a few million miles of wires per year the cost savings add up. As far as i can fathom it has nothing to do with cold winters as 2 batteries will solve that any day!
doubleing the voltage halves the resistence (i think) there for meaning you need less thickness in the wire, half the thinkness to be precise.
So for cheep Jap cars when you are talking about a few million miles of wires per year the cost savings add up. As far as i can fathom it has nothing to do with cold winters as 2 batteries will solve that any day!
Not quite, but close. This explaination will also be not quite, but close... dctecho could probably embelish this a little, as hes an autosparky from memory...
Take headlights for example. If you have 2 x 55W headlight bulbs, and using the formula P=I.V you deduce that P(power, 55W x 2 or 110W)=I x 12V, so therefor (stick with me here... hard maths early on a sunday morning before I have even had a coffee is not my forte
)
I=P/V
I=110/12
I=9.167 Amps
Or near enough to 10 Amps... quite a sizeable draw, and nearly 1/5th of the available current from most stock alternators - now add the boom box, the full beams, the stupid yellow fog lights most 4WDs get imported with, the other spotlights you bolted to the roof rack, the tail lights, the heater, the PS2 and monitors you installed in the boot to keep the kids sane on long trips.. .etc... and you're drawing LOTS. Whats more - 10A is a lot to draw through a cable, so you need a heavy gauge wire to take it... which weighs more and costs more.
the answer? Another battery (which weighs more and costs more... don't go there, I don't get it either
)
Now you have P=I.V making the current drawn by 110W of light being:
I=110/24
I=4.58A - surprise surprise, half the current.
Half the current means you can get away (from memory) with nearly 1/4 of the wire size, which is significant.
Now apply that to a couple of BIG things. Winches and starter motors... then you can start to appreciate the extra battery and what it achieves.
Side Note: The cold-start factory option from Toyota in the early surfs was an extra battery - but it was simply wired in parallel to the existing ones to provide twice the starting current to the starter motor.
Hope that confused everyone as much as it confused me... I'm off for a coffee
Steve
Take headlights for example. If you have 2 x 55W headlight bulbs, and using the formula P=I.V you deduce that P(power, 55W x 2 or 110W)=I x 12V, so therefor (stick with me here... hard maths early on a sunday morning before I have even had a coffee is not my forte
)
I=P/V
I=110/12
I=9.167 Amps
Or near enough to 10 Amps... quite a sizeable draw, and nearly 1/5th of the available current from most stock alternators - now add the boom box, the full beams, the stupid yellow fog lights most 4WDs get imported with, the other spotlights you bolted to the roof rack, the tail lights, the heater, the PS2 and monitors you installed in the boot to keep the kids sane on long trips.. .etc... and you're drawing LOTS. Whats more - 10A is a lot to draw through a cable, so you need a heavy gauge wire to take it... which weighs more and costs more.
the answer? Another battery (which weighs more and costs more... don't go there, I don't get it either
)
Now you have P=I.V making the current drawn by 110W of light being:
I=110/24
I=4.58A - surprise surprise, half the current.
Half the current means you can get away (from memory) with nearly 1/4 of the wire size, which is significant.
Now apply that to a couple of BIG things. Winches and starter motors... then you can start to appreciate the extra battery and what it achieves.
Side Note: The cold-start factory option from Toyota in the early surfs was an extra battery - but it was simply wired in parallel to the existing ones to provide twice the starting current to the starter motor.
Hope that confused everyone as much as it confused me... I'm off for a coffee
Steve
dont blow up over 24v
If you have a 24v truck and you tow frequently, your local auto sparky should be able to fix you up with a little relay unit that converts your trailer wiring plug to 12v
This is just a box of small relays that are swtched on the 24v side but the output side of the relay's to the trailer is supplied from one battery, so its 12v.
This works really well, ive had one for years and never have to worry about who's trailer, camper or boat im towing.
There was a bloke some years back who made these commercialy for a tow bar company, I think it was Best Bars but I may be wrong.
It is a great unit, about 5" long and 3" wide with a length of trailer lamp cable out each end, one is input 24V and the other output 12V alongside this at each end is a single supply cable.
I have mine installed up inside the rear quarter of my lwb Safari just in front of the jack stowage. The trailer plug is stowed in the jack box also and is just pulled out when needed.
Its been like that for about 5 years on this truck and was set up that way on the previous truck for three years, so no rusty plugs and no maintenance.
Next time I have the panel and all the storage unit and draws etc etc out of the truck, il whip out the unit and see if there is any info on it.
If there is, il post it so anyone interested can follow up.
Regards
Stu
This is just a box of small relays that are swtched on the 24v side but the output side of the relay's to the trailer is supplied from one battery, so its 12v.
This works really well, ive had one for years and never have to worry about who's trailer, camper or boat im towing.
There was a bloke some years back who made these commercialy for a tow bar company, I think it was Best Bars but I may be wrong.
It is a great unit, about 5" long and 3" wide with a length of trailer lamp cable out each end, one is input 24V and the other output 12V alongside this at each end is a single supply cable.
I have mine installed up inside the rear quarter of my lwb Safari just in front of the jack stowage. The trailer plug is stowed in the jack box also and is just pulled out when needed.
Its been like that for about 5 years on this truck and was set up that way on the previous truck for three years, so no rusty plugs and no maintenance.
Next time I have the panel and all the storage unit and draws etc etc out of the truck, il whip out the unit and see if there is any info on it.
If there is, il post it so anyone interested can follow up.
Regards
Stu
3rnzir wrote:True story muddy.Done that last year on a mates trailer.Don`t know why more trailer manufactures don`t put the new multi volt LED lights on as standard.Hella make them lights in a 9-30volt unit.Save alot of grief..
Because of the price... they are about $180 EACH SIDE! Ever the cheaper Narva ones are over $100 each when they are on special...
They will come down in price, but when you can buy a pair of bulb lights for about $15 most trailer manufacturers won't fit $400 worth of LED lights unless the customer specifically asks for them.
I wanted to put them on the back of the Hilux, but at that price I just stuck with the $9.95/pair cheapies from K-mart
I reckon I can destroy quite a few pairs before I come close to the cost of LED's - and I'm still on my first set, so doing ok there... although the k-mart bulbs were rubbish - I did spend about $10 on new bulbs...
Steve