Hi all
quick thanks to UBZ and BEN for the idle responses i had, all fixed.
Right i replaced my front wheel bearings and have driven around and now tightened them up that last little bit.
My front left wheel still has some play in it. It moves up and down slightly and as it does oil / grease is escaping from the ball joint piece (sorry don't know propper term) on the inside of the wheel. The seal is hanging out and will need replacing that's obvious enough, my question is what is causing the play?
The vehicle is a sj413 87 leafs all around.
Cheers
Pierre.
Play in left front wheel still (bearings replaced and tight)
Re: Play in left front wheel still (bearings replaced and tight)
sj50 wrote:Hi all
quick thanks to UBZ and BEN for the idle responses i had, all fixed.
Right i replaced my front wheel bearings and have driven around and now tightened them up that last little bit.
My front left wheel still has some play in it. It moves up and down slightly and as it does oil / grease is escaping from the ball joint piece (sorry don't know propper term) on the inside of the wheel. The seal is hanging out and will need replacing that's obvious enough, my question is what is causing the play?
The vehicle is a sj413 87 leafs all around.
Cheers
Pierre.
king pin bearing shims top and bottom of the swivel hub. there is shims under the caps to adjust preload on the bearings. when loose you get hub movement. pop caps off and adjust shims to remove play.
If you already know everything, DON'T ask bloody questions!!
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Re: Play in left front wheel still (bearings replaced and tight)
To expand on wop's answer . When you have the disc off you should see to king pin bearing caps , one on top and one below , with 4 bolts in them each . This is what the knuckle pivots around .
These are shimmed to get the right tension on the kingpin bearings , by putting shims between the plate and the knuckle , thus allowing the tappered bearing ( small wheel bearing ) to come out of the cup more .
Rough solution , as Wop said undo the caps and remove shims and see how it goes . Keep the shims .
The seals you see on the back of the knuckle are scraper seals , keep mud out and grease in the knuckle . They are not oil seals , there is an oil seal in the end of the axle tube . If you have oil coming out it will be leaking from there .
Complete fix , rebuild the knuckles with a hub kit , this will give you new kingpin bearings and all the seals in the hub , around $120-150 I think I paid for a kit to do both sides . Mine was a maxi trax kit , # SH21 , so ring around for prices .
If you are logged onto outerlimits , here is a link to see pic's of what we are talking about
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic127 ... ub+rebuild
Cheers
Chris
These are shimmed to get the right tension on the kingpin bearings , by putting shims between the plate and the knuckle , thus allowing the tappered bearing ( small wheel bearing ) to come out of the cup more .
Rough solution , as Wop said undo the caps and remove shims and see how it goes . Keep the shims .
The seals you see on the back of the knuckle are scraper seals , keep mud out and grease in the knuckle . They are not oil seals , there is an oil seal in the end of the axle tube . If you have oil coming out it will be leaking from there .
Complete fix , rebuild the knuckles with a hub kit , this will give you new kingpin bearings and all the seals in the hub , around $120-150 I think I paid for a kit to do both sides . Mine was a maxi trax kit , # SH21 , so ring around for prices .
If you are logged onto outerlimits , here is a link to see pic's of what we are talking about
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic127 ... ub+rebuild
Cheers
Chris