Some Safari questions...

[STIC]

I've got a '91 Auto Safari LWB High roof. It's a 24V model and i saw the thread about dash clusters and that they are a mixture of 24 and 12 volt gauges and that a prob with the converter could cause issues with the gauges.

All of my gauges work, except for the tacho; my cigarette lighter also doesn't work but the 12v stereo is fine...

I took my jack and bracket out and had a look and feel around but couldn't find anything resembling a converter.

Now, i'd like to run aftermarket oil pressure and water temp gauges, but, will they need to be 12v, or 24v; anyone know what voltage the factory senders are, and where i can find them?

If 24v, then does anyone know where you can get 24v a/m gauges that don't cost more than the truck (priced some marine ones up and politely declined, and then ran...)?

[meece4x4]

The 12 inverter on My Saf is behind the front passengers kickpanel down to the left of their feet (though mines a LWB 24V Manual), they are notorious for packing up, mine didn't work when I first got the truck, pulled the panel and took the inverter out and cleaned all the corrosion off the terminals and that got it going again.

ciggie lighter and clock didnt work on mine, again seems like a common problen earth issue apparently... couldn't be assed tracing the fault so just wired in a new 12V 3 bay ciggie lighter with USB plug into the 12V feed off the Inverter, supplies plenty of 12V for running the CB, USB charger for the GPS, Phone, and PRS Radio

Just check the radio isn't just direct wired to one of you 12V batteries, lots of muppets do this rather than finding a 12V feed off the inverter

[safarifern]

Just check the radio isn't just direct wired to one of you 12V batteries, lots of muppets do this rather than finding a 12V feed off the inverter

Good advice!!

As said best to get an 24V to 12V reducer and run all you 12V off that .... You can get 5 to 25 amp ones and above for not a lot of cost. If your planing to change your truck into something more then search the forum for people who have done 12V setups, pending on what you want to do with your truck, there are all different ones .... my one is the link below, I'm more of a 4WD touring person, thus the RV type setup

Hope this helps.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/ ... 25&t=24430

[STIC]

Yeah, i was looking at your setup post yesterday.

Not that everyone isn't after keeping costs down, but i do try to do things as frugaly as possible.

Most of the mods to previous cars (and that includes fitting boost controlers, wiring big audio, panel, paint and welding, gearbox swaps etc...) i did myself; i'm not trained in anything but can turn my hand to most things.

I have had a look at a couple of inverters, but, not knowing much about 24v systems, i need some good advice.

I have heard on different forums that some people swear by inverters, and some claim they are bad for the batteries; some say use a charge equalizer and/or run a 3rd battery.

Unfortunately, most of these threads involve people who know how all this stuff works and i don't.

I wouldn't even know how a converter is wired into the 24v set up...Does it have a possitive off one battery and negative off the other, or is the negative off the body and if so, which battery does the positive go to...

It was so much easier with 12v...

[DaveM]

A converter will have a 24v input, earth, and 12v output. Easy enough to wire up.
An inverter and converter are 2 different items. Inverter is for DC to AC and converter (or reducer) for say 24v to 12v

[safarifern]

It was so much easier with 12v...

Oh so true!!

DaveM given you a great start, and as he said its easy! With your experience on previous cars, it will be a breeze for you.

So get yourself a 24V to 12V reducer, links below from TM to give you a start. Next you need to work out what Amp reducer you need. This all depends on what your going to be running off it. So do some math .... most units will tell you what there max amp is, but some will just give you the power in watts, so use the simple equation below:

P = watts A = Amps V = Volts

To Get P = A X V
To Get A = P / V
To Get V = P / A

Example: I have a 20 watt CB @ 12 V.
So 20 watt (P) divided by 12V (V) = 1.6 amps (A)
So I have a 1.6 Amp CB

Now most cheap china made reducer won't push out there amps continently without burning them self out .... SO RULE OF THUMB .... give yourself 20% of the amps for this problem.

Example: You need 18 amps of MAX power so a 20 AMP Reducer take 20% = 16 amps MAX so buy a 25 AMP Reducer. Also give yourself some play just in case you need to add more later on.

Next wiring it up:

As DaveM has said, 3 wires on the reducer. 24V in 12V out and ground. 24V in goes to your 2nd battery I.e the one on the left when looking at the engine from the front of the truck. It would help if you own a multimeter, to test, if you don't I would recommended you buy one, there cheap as now days and help you with many other things in the future. Buy yourself a water proof fuse holder (no doubt your going to get your truck wet) and wire in-line only about 30cm from battery. This is to protect the cable your running to the reducer. For $7 its worth not frying your reducer and anything wired to it when you stuck in a river!

Ground wire can go to any good bolt on the body of the car, just make sure you have a good connection!

12V Out goes to your 12V accessories. I would recommended you get a internal auto fuse box (like the one in my pics) I picked my up from a RV shop for $30 but you can get smaller ones for cheaper on TM. This is so adding new 12V accessories is easy and all protected with there own fuse.

Cable to use: There is AC cable and DC cable, for a good reason! So use DC cable, also DC cable is more flexible and easier to get into doors ect.

This setup is cheapest way to go but be sure to do you math! If your thinking of running 12v compressor or any high load items, you will have to have a different system, but if its just Radio, CB and a phone charger or any low load items, then this system will do the job well!
Question for you .... were are you in NZ??

Have fun Any questions just post

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 755203.htm

[STIC]

Cheers.

I'm in Feilding by the way.

Now, that's mostly answered my question; however, i have a secondary one...and this is the initial thing that made me wonder about the voltage and wiring.

When i put a multimeter positive pickup on the positive terminal of the '2nd battery', and place the negative pick up on the negative post i get 24v, but, if the negative pick up is conected to the inlet manifold i get 12v.

So, and i know i might be looking at this the wrong way here, but with the reducer in and 12v out to accessories, where to i earth the accessories?

Does it matter that the body is 24v earth, or should i run an earth cable from the motor to an 'earth fuse block'?

As to what i'm looking to use it for; i want to wire in a decent lighter socket for accessories and have an incabin 12v power feed for use with 12v gauges.

I was going to add a sub and amp to my system but at 30amp, it'd need it's own 40amp inverter so that's for another time.

[safarifern]

When i put a multimeter positive pickup on the positive terminal of the '2nd battery', and place the negative pick up on the negative post i get 24v, but, if the negative pick up is conected to the inlet manifold i get 12v.

This is because the the negative post of your "2nd battery" is connected to your positive post of your "1st battery' (the right side one) 12 + 12 = 24V.

So, and i know i might be looking at this the wrong way here, but with the reducer in and 12v out to accessories, where to i earth the accessories?

Does it matter that the body is 24v earth, or should i run an earth cable from the motor to an 'earth fuse block'?

Ground is ground .... so doesn't matter what voltage your using it be 12V or 24V you just find a good connection on the body of the truck for all items including reducer and accessories.

As to what i'm looking to use it for; i want to wire in a decent lighter socket for accessories and have an incabin 12v power feed for use with 12v gauges.

Sweet, great idea! I pulled the plug off my lighter at the front and re-wired, plus put a 12V lighter block on (one of those cheap one to 3 + USB lighter socket blocks off TM) works a treat with all chargers / GPS / hands free phone kit ect ....

Happy re-wiring

[STIC]

Ok, that's what i needed to know.

Now, one more...

Which gauges in the dash are 12v and which are 24v?

...and, are the senders for any of the 12v gauges 12v also?

I want to retain my factory gauges (which all work except for the tacho) but also run A/m for water temp and oil pressure as the factory ones are a bit vauge...

I would like to run an a/m tacho (not one of those hooj boyracer bling bling ones with shift light ) but i'm not sure where i can get the signal pickup as i'm not experienced with diesels...

Although i've seen some diagrams, i'm still a little unsure of where the factory sender is for it, or what it reads.