Fiddle Brakes

brakes-shocks-lockers-etc
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MNC
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Fiddle Brakes

Post by MNC »

Does anyone know where I could find some more info on setting up some fiddle breaks in my FJ40?

I`m thinking about replacing the front drum breaks with discs (and understand that I could bolt Hillux or 60 series ones in- what about surf ones?) thought while I was at it why not set up fiddle breaks :roll:
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Post by WACKO »

im not sure, but wouldnt you need to put a handbreak cable type setup independantly to each calliper? maybe hand around some trials drivers?
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Post by De-Ranged »

Wopass has done the front disk conversion on his rig, from memory you need the swivel housings off a solid axle hilux and surf calipers and the vented disk off a 60 series

But these calipers don't have a handbrake attatchment so unless you plumb into the hyd lines (not certifiable :roll: ) I don't know of any calipers out there that would be big enough to stop a cruiser front end and come with cable brakes , you could look at doing what I've done on my RR and double caliper it (have a llook in the Rover tech section for fiddles)haven't certified it yet but been told by my certifier that it will pass :D

Cheers Reece
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Post by JTop »

It seems to be generally accepted that rear fiddles are of greater benefit and they don't load up your CV's. This is if you have a front locker.
Disc's require more mechanical advantage in the brakeing system than drums, you might think about running the 2 lines through a pair of VH44's to get them to lock
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Post by SupraLux »

http://internet.cybermesa.com/~chscully ... discs.html

Heres some good gen on fitting Hilux brakes to the front of a cruiser... theres more links at the bottom of the page.

DeRangeds fiddle setup is nice, I'd do it that way if I was fitting some

Steve
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Post by De-Ranged »

Oh gee shucks ya got me all embarissed :oops: Steve

Oh thought of another way you could do it (fiddle brakes) ..... the front calipers on the Range Rover are a 4 piston caliper in two seperate sets with there own hyd lines.... you could run these onto the rear disk (would give you a 2 piston caliper if you plumbed into one system, this would be good enough for a rear... you'd need all 4 pots for front axle as theres more weight applied and requires more braking) if you did convert it you could plumb the second set to a clutch master off say a hilux for certifiable hyd fiddles :D :D

What I got told by the certifier was fiddles couldnn't compremise the "normal" braking if they fail.... why they have to be a seperate system

JTops got a good point rears would be better .... and easyier as you've got more room to play with no steering bs in the way (whats a VH44 :scratch: by the way???)

Cheers Reece
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Post by MNC »

Right, that all sounds like hard work.

Think I`ll have to hook up with Wopass and get some tips. Cheers guys.
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Post by oldblue »

VH44 is a inline brake booster, uses the increasing brake line pressure to give the down-stream side an increase in line pressure.By way of useing the vacumn to assist it.
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Post by JTop »

Get them off Hillman Hunters, Morris 1800's and the like
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Post by oldblue »

Just a little advise: Dont fit them in line with your excisting power assist servo. Tryed that when fitting rear disc to a cruiser.It gives the brake peddel a whole new feel.Almost like a 2 stage feel. 1st stage ,good, 2nd stage puts you thru the windscreen.
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Post by NuTTa »

Hilman Imp master cylinders (line in and out) ,splitter from your original master cylinder, you'd need to run two lines from the rear up to the fiddle mounting place, along with the fronts run there as well, your master has a front conection along with the rear so put a splitter on each and run to the specific Imp master then to your brake, with using the Imp your foot brake will still operate all wheels as normal and your fiddles will operate independently.
hope this helps.

cheers
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Post by MNC »

Cheers Nutta. That sounds all good although unfortunately I`m a mechanical retard.

Though I may look at putting some 60 series diffs in that have the hand break on the drums - keep the original handbreak on the driveshaft and then run the two 60 series individual handbreak lines to some fiddle levers in the cab.

Will give me control over the rear two wheels anyway and if I put a locker in the front as well it will just be to assist steering (wont need for traction if all for wheels spinning anway).

What do you reckon :?:
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Post by Bubba »

De-Ranged wrote:Oh gee shucks ya got me all embarissed :oops: Steve

Oh thought of another way you could do it (fiddle brakes) ..... the front calipers on the Range Rover are a 4 piston caliper in two seperate sets with there own hyd lines.... you could run these onto the rear disk (would give you a 2 piston caliper if you plumbed into one system, this would be good enough for a rear... you'd need all 4 pots for front axle as theres more weight applied and requires more braking) if you did convert it you could plumb the second set to a clutch master off say a hilux for certifiable hyd fiddles :D :D

What I got told by the certifier was fiddles couldnn't compremise the "normal" braking if they fail.... why they have to be a seperate system

JTops got a good point rears would be better .... and easyier as you've got more room to play with no steering bs in the way (whats a VH44 :scratch: by the way???)

Cheers Reece


I know what you are saying is in English so why can't I understand a single friggin word :roll:
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Post by NuTTa »

the Imp master cylinders are about $35.00 each...+ getting the brake lines made or if your able to make them yourself even cheaper..



Cheers
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Post by JTop »

The Imp cyls need a special inlet fitting
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Post by logger2 »

The imp masters are more like $50 retail part num p5060 i think most brake specialist shop can get them
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Post by mroffroader »

logger2 wrote:The imp masters are more like $50 retail part num p5060 i think most brake specialist shop can get them


try this member "ELMO" he sounds like a imp collector...check out his page http://www.drive.to/imps ....he might have some lying around for cheap...just a thought http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/modules ... sc&start=0 :lol:
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Post by De-Ranged »

I know what you are saying is in English so why can't I understand a single friggin word


:lol: did I mention I had two goes at school cert english and JUST made a C- on the second go :oops: hard to believe based on my posts

the front calipers on the Range Rover are a 4 piston caliper in two seperate sets with there own hyd lines.... you could run these onto the rear disk (would give you a 2 piston caliper if you plumbed into one system

If you have a look at the front disk calipers on a range rover you will see they have two hydrolic lines running in.... they are a 4 piston caliper with 2 seperate systems... the front two pistons are feed from one hyd line and the rear from the second line.... some sort of safety system
What I was suggesting was a legal way of running hydrolic fiddle brakes.... you plumb your brakes to the front two pistons and your fiddle brakes to the rear pistons and since the fiddle brake will only be working on two small pistons I suggested using clutch master cylinders from a hilux as a way of powering it
This would be legal becoase the fiddle brakes are not part of the normal braking system a failure in the fiddle brakes can not effect the vehicles brakes

As for certification I would sugest talking to a certifier before you shell out for the Imp setup as it plums into the normal brake system to my understanding this is illegal :shock: on a bush truck or trials truck is sounds like the bees knees( :roll: opps sorry I mean really good)

I hope this helped 8)

Oh and MNC the way I see it your fiddles will be fighting the forward drive from your locked front end, I'd guess they would even out the loss of turning from the locka, if you can afford it, get an ARB that way you can turn it off and get the full bonus from the fiddle brakes

Cheers Reece
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Post by NuTTa »

your right with the part number Logger IBS P 5060 a mate brought one last friday for $35.00..and i think it was from Ripco..umm repco..


cheers
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Post by NuTTa »

Turoa and anyone else sending me PM's..i'm getting a e-mail saying i have new messages..but they arent showing up...so please dont think im ignoring you ok..might be a site issue..


cheers
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Post by turoa »

is your inbox full?
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Post by NuTTa »

Nah Tu..it's only 12 %..
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Post by oldblue »

Austin Princess have the same type of calliper, duel curcit type.
Just remember that if you use a fixed body calliper, youll need to remove all of the end float from the axle.
Best to look for a floating rail type. this takes care of any axle end play.
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Post by Furgus »

De-Ranged wrote :
If you have a look at the front disk calipers on a range rover you will see they have two hydrolic lines running in.... they are a 4 piston caliper with 2 seperate systems... the front two pistons are feed from one hyd line and the rear from the second line.... some sort of safety system
What I was suggesting was a legal way of running hydrolic fiddle brakes.... you plumb your brakes to the front two pistons and your fiddle brakes to the rear pistons


That's exactly how we've got the front fiddle brakes on the rally truck (ex-Rangy) set up - it works pretty well as long as the pads are dry.
If at first you don't succeed .... Get a bigger hammer!!

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Post by MNC »

Nice work, I still dont understand a thing you are saying - although I new someone who drove an austin princess - sounded awesome looked .... interesting :roll:

Pitty you guys are all so far away. This would be a great project - lets all gather around my truck - drink beer and debate about the best way for it to turn corners with front and rear lockers. :lol:

Sorry to say next projects are:
1. Sort out my rear locker (one side is not unlocking as it should),
2. Bend up new exhaust , bigger, louder, shorter - just like me :lol: so I have room for the drive shaft for the PTO winch. 8),
3. PTO winch.
4. Power steering, who needs the gym when you can try and drive on 33"x14"x15" boggers at 15psi in deep mud all day oh yeah with 1.5 tonne pushing them down and any other way than the one you want to go (oh my arms),
5. other non important stuff like the fuel leak from my Holley Carb, and the leaking gasket on the water pump, might even get to the leaking diff seals one day :shock:

Then will get on to the fiddle breaks, promise
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Post by NuTTa »

i've done a rough diagram below


cheers
Last edited by NuTTa on Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by lilpigzuk »

NuTTa's rough diagram :wink:

Image

I will let him explain....
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Post by NuTTa »

thanks for upping the pic lilpigzuk :lol:

Fiddle set up from MC = master cylinder to the SP = splitter then thru to the IMP = imp master cylinder then thru to your individual 4 corners of your braking.


hope this is explanitory enough.

Cheers
Brendon

excuse my drawing..hard to do with just a mouse...lol
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MNC
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Post by MNC »

Nice, pic is so good even I could follow it. Cheers
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Post by logger2 »

hey nutta is that place that you get the imp masters from any good ?
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