12v 24v Trailer

Garage talk. Anything from mounting a winch to water proofing the electrics.
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fweddy
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12v 24v Trailer

Post by fweddy »

I was using my father's trailer on his van the other day and the trailer lights were not all working (only had tail). I dropped it to the auto sparky to get it sorted. Went and picked it up later with my truck and noticed it only had one indicator and one brake light.

Of course my truck is 24v so I had effectively blown two sets of bulbs!

He suggested.

1. Fitting 24v bulb which would work for my truck and would still work but be dim for 12v ones.

2. Fitting LED multi voltage lights to the trailer (cost of about $500 - but I know I can do it under half that myself)

I asked about doing something to the truck and he said that is possible. I have a reducer for my stereo, but i figure for the trailer lights I would need one for each circuit??

What have other's done? I'm favouring modding the truck rather than the trailer as it gives me great flexibility if I use some one's else's trailer.

Digging out you auto sparky wise guys
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Jerry
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Post by Jerry »

Narva I think sell a nice set of 12v / 24v lights cheap .....$60 from memory :?:
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mercutio
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Post by mercutio »

how good are your auto sparky skills

you could use the reducer thing and using a few 24v relays use the 24v to switch the relays then run the power from the reducer through the other side of the relay to operate which ever lights you need

does that make sense :lol: :lol:
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Jerry
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Post by Jerry »

Otherwise you can get 24 to 12v converters that go between the plugs from Repco/Supercheap etc, these aren't horrendus
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fweddy
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Post by fweddy »

Jerry wrote:Otherwise you can get 24 to 12v converters that go between the plugs from Repco/Supercheap etc, these aren't horrendus


That sounds like a good solution. You are saying it goes between the vehicle plug and trailer plug? That way I can run any trailer with my truck still set up as is.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Jerry
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Post by Jerry »

yep....under $100 I think from memory
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paule
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Post by paule »

That option sounds very cheap. 5 circuit reducers retail from $200-$300. I have seen people make up a small box with another set of rear lights in it (12v) in series. This wiil effectivly share the load. :)
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skid
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Post by skid »

if moneys the option, then put the 24 volt bulbs in


my trailer has them and they work fine

I will of course be going to LED very soon as I'm sick and tired of blowing the bulbs all the time from the vibration of the trailer.

so as usual it will be money that dictates what you do, but if money is not a problem then put LEDs in, coz it doesn't matter who uses the trailer then.
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niblik
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Post by niblik »

buy a 12v truck.... :wink: :roll:

sorry... had to.. :oops:
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fweddy
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Post by fweddy »

skid wrote:if moneys the option, then put the 24 volt bulbs in


my trailer has them and they work fine

I will of course be going to LED very soon as I'm sick and tired of blowing the bulbs all the time from the vibration of the trailer.

so as usual it will be money that dictates what you do, but if money is not a problem then put LEDs in, coz it doesn't matter who uses the trailer then.


Problem with the 24v bulb option is that the trailer is mainly used by 12v vehicles often for long hauls (interisland) so I don't want to compromise brightness. Think I'll check out Jerry's suggestion as that way I can tow anybody's trailer (hire gear etc) with no issues.


Nibby - I like my truck, so I'm happy to put up with a few extra volts :)
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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paule
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Post by paule »

There is another option other than reducer. I have made several resistor banks using heavy duty heat sinked resistors. just wire in series under ur vehicle and mount somewhere to keep cool. Works a treat but so does the box i mentioned b4. With the box made up just plug into ur existing plug and tie onto drawbar 4 whenever u tow. Take off and leve in back 4 next time when u done. :)
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fweddy
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Post by fweddy »

paule wrote:I have seen people make up a small box with another set of rear lights in it (12v) in series. This wiil effectivly share the load.


paule wrote:There is another option other than reducer. I have made several resistor banks using heavy duty heat sinked resistors. just wire in series under ur vehicle and mount somewhere to keep cool. Works a treat but so does the box i mentioned b4. With the box made up just plug into ur existing plug and tie onto drawbar 4 whenever u tow. Take off and leve in back 4 next time when u done. :)


So to combine your ideas I could wire a 12v light in series into each wire from the tail light to the trailer plug (some where under the truck) and then when I use the indicator / brake/ tail I would have my trailer lights work and also a nice 'neon type' glow under my truck :) Bling!
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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paule
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Post by paule »

Yep sur can, only mite have issues with water/dirt if not sealed well. :)
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Post by hillbilly »

hi, my mate just bought a voltage reducer , its a trailer plug with converters in it just bolts up as normal, he paid about $198 ,check out http://www.adaptrix.co.nz, they were good to deal with,
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tristanp
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Post by tristanp »

TWL has multi voltage (12 & 24v) led trailer lights on special this month
i paid 68$ each for mine

download the specials cat here http://www.twlnz.co.nz/promotions
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