been a while since I've been here... but been out a couple times since changing to elec fans- few issues with aftermarket thermostats...(also genuine is cheaper....)
had a trip up to woodhil and one to thonpsons. few pics and maybe a video if I work out how
had a brief play with it at the Toyota fest at Hampton downs, was expecting a little more the what was there from there advertised track... FB_IMG_1554268830905.jpg FB_IMG_1554268830905.jpg this little water decided to kill my alt and a few idler bearings... also cooling fan shat itself again ...
have some front and rear drivetech 4x4 4.88 ratio crown wheel and pinion to suit safari/patrol. brand new. they are made in Italy. purchased spur of the moment and will never most likely get around to fitting. tried to find feedback on strength, but only reports I could get was not as strong as OEM ...
I did briefly search for a twin transfer or something along the lines of that to push it backwards, but that doesn't seem to exist for these transfer/trans. I have collected a hzj79 transfer/the correct extension housing to go from lex auto to transfer.(thanks big) have a step up ag box to drive the ...
Oh yeah that sounds a bit drastic. I say chop EVERYTHING behind the B-Pillar off and remove the firewall. Move the engine back to make the front drive shaft longer and then rebuild the back end in full truggy mode (including PTO driven God winch) and go racing! that might be a little drastic haha I ...
that's very helpful info you always come through with Arron, much appreciated. I've got most parts of the puzzle there, im confident the rear will be ok, but the front driveshaft would be reduced to 500 or 550 (200shorter than current )overall length. that is the bit that potentially concerns me re ...
interesting it would mean my front drive shaft would be approx 220mm shorter than it currently is, so overall length would be reduced to about 550mm long, seems quite short.drive flange would be about rear trans sump bolts.
that would be appreciated. I'm actually running a 1uz auto, but I was on the understanding that I would just require the different extension housing between auto and transfer to connect everything?
hi guys, on my ever growing quest to fit a pto/hydro winch, i was wondering if someone could take some measurements of there transmisson for me? trying to work out if i could get away with a 70 series transfer in my surf...think itll leave me with a short front drive shaft.... but if someone cold ...
I thought I'd start investigating into my plan of fitting a pto to my trans, and started to split the parts transmission I've had sitting on the floor for at least a year- this is where it went down hill... my memory had told me the intermediate housing between the trans and transfer case was one ...
wow over a year since my last post, truck hasnt seen much action but recent trip to America caused some money to be spent... fitted them up over the weekend. haven't taken it for a skid yet.. 20180925_161754.jpg 20180930_143950.jpg 20180930_134055.jpg rps20180930_175341.jpg rope hanging out is ...
yea magic thanks for your help. that's the kinda thing i want.. shes a bit of a heavy cow, but I think the added weight of a hydro winch be more beneficial than not having it. also have a pto gear already one of our local suppliers had them listed as spare parts .
yes there is a collar or spacer that joins the out put from auto to input of transfer that by memory is about 60-70mm long. this is where I was planning to fit the drive gear. magic, I'll add a 3-1 box to my list of items to collect. I was thinking that would be the case to allow the drive winch ...
currently have Lexus auto with surf transfercase, which we all know has no pto drive... I have a plan which envoles some cutting and welding or plan b is a prado case but offset drive. plan a is to make a 70 series pto fit, so gear ratios should be similar to a factory prado set up. more curious if ...
i have a silly idea to want to mount a midmount hydraulic winch to me surf(the term surf is quite vague in this instance...) for a couple of reasons- bigger drum, more pull, maybe speed not essential tho. now i dont currently have the option of a pto drive but have a plan to utilise some cruiser ...
as I side note, I doubt that solenoid can handle 500amps..its the same as a ride on starter solenoid. I run isolators on my winches- rated to 300 odd continuous, but2500/ 3000amps intermintanly
Trans is easy to wire into manual shift, 2 relays and a couple diodes.just using the inihator switch as your control?
I also added a transgo shift kit to the valve body, to make gear shifts a bit more positive under power. ( granted im running more power than the average kzn130 tho)
I had thought about that bar aswell, I haven't really required it on mine yet.....ps should be sweet with clearance, looks like plenty there. The bpillar bar on mine was real tight, aprox 5-10mm in places and well let's just say the there's some nice curved clearencing been done.... about 15mm would ...
Would suggest against tapping off the 12v battery in the 24v system. You will end up with one flat battery.
Either stand alone 12v alt,
Or 12v house battery(s?) And a 24v -12v charger to charge the house battery. A dc-dc charger or similar