been struggling with tweakes theory tbh. my experience is fuel screw wound in = timing advance, elevated idle due to injectors cracking earlier? . sort of, injectors are cracking open earlier but not from increased pressure. when you adjust the max fuel screw your actually adjusting the start point ...

Ah I'm with you now. Your talking about a complete off the shelf kit, ready to bolt on including the injector pump correct? Makes sense but also very expensive I'd imagine. Do you not think the usual "modified injector pump, 12mm plunger, and added boost compensator" is the way to go? If not, why ...

That's good then. 550 should be safe as. Yea that will be the goal, it's got a full 3" exhaust, really good flow, but will that be big enough for that level? you will probably find 550c is a very small adjustment. also if the turbo is a bit big you actually need to poke some fuel in just to get the ...

500-550 will be pre turbo. The egt sensor is in the manifold. As for desired power... End goal will be round 25ish with good intercooler and modded fuel pump etc. And now possibly an intake manifold :D pre turbo you should be fine around 600-700c. if your after 25lb boost plus fuel to match your ...

fuel pressure adjustment is fairly relative to flow adjustment tweake, more pressure a pump would relate to more flow past cracked injector would it not? except the adjustment screw doesn't change injection pressure or flow. it only changes maximum injection amount which only applies at max ...

Cool thanks guys, definatly out of our league for sure. Will turn the pump up a bit to get her going a bit better but will keep it conservative. Aim for 15 psi and 500-550 degrees. Will add an intercooler later on and also probly change the turbo, it's quite slow to spool up. Internet reading ...

i think slidenyo is using the wrong terms. its not fuel pressure its fuel flow. bigger plunger allows you to squirt more volume of fuel in. adjusting the pump adjusts the volume of fuel injected not pressure. there is another section of the pump which generates low fuel pressure which is used to ...

Is that pretty much what is achieved by having someone modify the factory pump with bigger plunger and a boost compensator? Is it straight forward, could it be done at home? Or need special tools? As for fuel pressure, is that related to the modded pump or what we plan to do? How do you retard and ...

Bendix gear on starter motor, works like a one way clutch. Google might tell you how to test it properly, not sure I wanna mention my redneck way of doing it :mrgreen: i don't think bendix is the right term. its not an inertia starter. most likely is the solenoid has crap in it and is sticking or ...

catalystracing wrote:LN107 DC hilux 1996

off the top of my head T10. pull the bulbs out of the holders.
i put some on the surf but it was a long time ago.

alternator light needs to be a normal bulb.

more likely turbo is failing or you have heavy crank case breathing or blocked crank breather.

I've got what I believe is a 2l although it has the 2lt exhaust manifold and turbo on it my question is are the rods the same between the 2l and 2lt I've got a bent rod and a guy sent me a rod supposedly for a 2lt and it doesn't fit? first thing is do you have a 2l-1 or a 2l-2? http://www ...

what vehicle ?
common sizes are t10 and t5, but some use some weird sizes and also theres a hand full of different fittings.

depends on how bad the turbo. egt's no more than 700c pre turbo, which is conservative but you may want to keep it fairly low if your not running a boost comp and turbo is unknown. try and find where he got the kit from. hopefully its already set at a reasonable boost level. there no point pushing ...

first thing is which version of the TD42 does he have. i'm a bit rusty but i think its the black top atmo motor that is the weaker one. generally keep boost under 15psi and intercool it. what turbo are you putting on? really the turbo needs to match the fueling. with the good kits its best to get ...

whats your pressure drop across the intercooler at 30 psi boost ?

goggle "navara egr block butterfly mod"

are the uni's in phase. if i remember right its a 2 piece shaft and sometimes don't get put back together the right way.
also fit some front hubs, saves wear on the front end.

depends a lot on the sort of use, ranges, magnification and of course low light use. i can't comment on sth island hill country long range stuff but in the medium category that fits in the glove box the old Leupold Yosemite have been a staple for years. not sure on currant prices, there where very ...

plenty of info on this. its much the same as the hilux 3l turbo conversions which you will find heaps of write ups on. make sure its a 5l rather than a 5l-e. most basic way is to use surf 2lt-e turbo and manifolds etc. only need to fit an oil return pipe to the sump. engine life is more about the ...

I disagree . The coolant when it is runing stops it from reaching a temp that will cook oil into sludge after shutdown . Yes technically it will thermosiphon but an insignificant ammount The turbo itself doesnt give a shit which way water flows . sorry but wrong. turbo's are basically all OIL ...

it does matter how its done.
the coolant when engine is running doesn't do bugger all, its when the engine stops that it matters. the thermo siphon has a few requirements for it to work correctly. i'm sure the patrol forums would have write ups on where to plumb it in.

you guys just love replying to spam

sorry i may have names mixed up a bit but point is there is quite a bit of use of the same/similar gearboxes by the car companies.

best bet would be to use a electronically controlled auto. either fit the ecu or manualise it. that way you can fit the shifter where ever you like. as they are JATCO gearboxes it likely you can get a 2wd version or the rear of the 2wd version. quite possibly in another brand (eg toyota, mitsi etc ...

the problems comes from the turbo loosing its drive suddenly and theres still enough boost left in the system to force its way back.
often because turbo is being pushed to or well past its limits.

actually never checked that either. always had the gauge reading from the inlet mani and that wastegate controlled from right off the turbo (25psi wastegate spring atm, gave up on shitty bleed off taps). whats your theory here you could be putting out far more boost than your reading on the gauge ...

altair wrote:.to me the "smoke" is a bit of a haze, smells reallly strongly of diesel

yeah that smacks of timing issues. fuels not burning and going down the exhaust. fuel in the exhaust will make white smoke.

might want to try 3" from turbo to filter. possibly 4" filter

the other mad thought is what is your boost before the IC ? ie at the turbo.

well over due for fuel filter change.
that would be the first thing to change.