petefj40's build/mods

[IcedJohnno]

Tuning the LS1 ecu, "in real time"

I'm real excited about this latest mod. It's still in the planning stage.

But in short. The reason for the mod is simple. I want to be able change a power curve on my own and do it "in real time" on both my V8's. (LS1 5.7L FJ40/Holden VX which has the LS2 6L but is controlled by a LS1ecu)

I'm fairly happy with the FJ40's tune but not at all happy with the Holden's tune. Spent heaps of coin trying to get it right.

Well fark me, I got told about a package today that allows you tune things on the fly called "Roadrunner". How it works is. The system is grafted onto the PCM's main circuit board in place of the original flash ROM.

Just check out this link below.
I'm buzzing about this...

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/te ... index.html

Hmmmm
I used to run an engine brake in the UK for a while and have spent a lot of time round a very good hydraulic pod dyno at P.A.D. Racing here in Chch.

With late model engines there are many variables Pete. It is really easy to change things for the worse. It might be just difficulty with cold starting or as drastic as advanced knocking or melting pistons.

I learnt the hard way, the first time I modified a road engine at 18. Only the heady technological heights of a 1700cc Ford Kent engine too, so not complex in any way. Only revving to 8k.
Higher compression ratios = more airflow. Re-jet the carb or you will melt pistons! Only took a 50km blast too

My suggestion is to go to an expert who you can trust. Not all so-called experts have good analytical skills nor know when to ask for advice. Garry at P.A.D. is dyno-ing most days of the week and you will find the engines he tunes win most classes, whether off-road, classic, speedway or F5000 racing. His results speak for his skill and quality.

Compare the price of a quality dyno tune to an LS2 engine rebuild. You know the answer.

[petefj40]

Tuning the LS1 ecu, "in real time"

I'm real excited about this latest mod. It's still in the planning stage.

But in short. The reason for the mod is simple. I want to be able change a power curve on my own and do it "in real time" on both my V8's. (LS1 5.7L FJ40/Holden VX which has the LS2 6L but is controlled by a LS1ecu)

I'm fairly happy with the FJ40's tune but not at all happy with the Holden's tune. Spent heaps of coin trying to get it right.

Well fark me, I got told about a package today that allows you tune things on the fly called "Roadrunner". How it works is. The system is grafted onto the PCM's main circuit board in place of the original flash ROM.

Just check out this link below.
I'm buzzing about this...

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/te ... index.html

Hmmmm
I used to run an engine brake in the UK for a while and have spent a lot of time round a very good hydraulic pod dyno at P.A.D. Racing here in Chch.

With late model engines there are many variables Pete. It is really easy to change things for the worse. It might be just difficulty with cold starting or as drastic as advanced knocking or melting pistons.

I learnt the hard way, the first time I modified a road engine at 18. Only the heady technological heights of a 1700cc Ford Kent engine too, so not complex in any way. Only revving to 8k.
Higher compression ratios = more airflow. Re-jet the carb or you will melt pistons! Only took a 50km blast too

My suggestion is to go to an expert who you can trust. Not all so-called experts have good analytical skills nor know when to ask for advice. Garry at P.A.D. is dyno-ing most days of the week and you will find the engines he tunes win most classes, whether off-road, classic, speedway or F5000 racing. His results speak for his skill and quality.

Compare the price of a quality dyno tune to an LS2 engine rebuild. You know the answer.

I hear where you are coming from Jono. And thanks for the post.

But if you read all about the "moates.net Roadrunner" system. It's been proven to work well in the States on the LS1 ECU's. My LS2 has been adapted to run the LS1 ECU. (throttle cable, no fly by wire shit)

I've tried getting a good tune through the two main people here in Chch who do it, but both aren't up to speed.
I was thinking of getting my car transported up to Wellington and getting a known fella up there to tune it. But after talking to the guys at NZEFI here in Chch. They raved about the Roadrunner system. It takes the guess work out of tuning. It really is revolutionary! Tuning "in real time" is where it's at Jono.

I'd be taking all the precautions NOT to melt my new motor. Don't worry about that.

[petefj40]

Went to fit new radiator today. Turns out it's just a little to thick. So the cradle that it fits into will have to be altered.
The new radiator is actually an oil cooler. Custom made. Just a tad to big. The other one I had made up didn't cool it well enough. This one should do it nicely.





I'm changing all the plastic pulleys for steel one. And changing the odd size bearing sizes in the stock pulleys for common sized bearings. So when they stuff out I can press them out and replace them no problem without having to change the whole pulley.

And yep, I'm doing it myself. The partner is onto me. Wants me to save where I can.

[tallsam66]

I assume you were running a radiator shround on ya old radiator they do make a massive difference

[albundy]

How did ya truck go at Pucker Park, Pete?

[petefj40]

I assume you were running a radiator shround on ya old radiator they do make a massive difference

For sure.

[petefj40]

How did ya truck go at Pucker Park, Pete?

Yeah good thanks Al. The kids love that place.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzbKofqe3Ng

Frank, Rick n Jase are doing a good job with the graders n diggers there, shaping up the place.

I'll be a regular there. That was my 4th visit.

[cool__bananas]

all the tensioners have sealed bearings, just pop the cap off at the back and pump them full of grease or engine oil or what ever and they are miiint! thats what ive done

[petefj40]

all the tensioners have sealed bearings, just pop the cap off at the back and pump them full of grease or engine oil or what ever and they are miiint! thats what ive done

I didn't do that. The mud got in and rooted them all.

Then when it came to replacing them, I thought I could just get the old bearings pressed out and press in new ones.
But all the bearings are an odd size. (nice one GM) Not a common size. And, most of the pulleys are plastic. So replacing the bearings if you could get them, isn't an option.
So. In the end. I've bought steel after market pulleys. All fitted with a common size replaceable bearing. Problem solved. As soon as one starts squeaking. Press it out and put in a new one at stuff all cost.

Just one of those plastic GM pulleys fitted with the odd size bearing was $170!! As aposed to just $30 to replace a common size bearing that you can press in and out yourself.

[petefj40]

My brother Adam just started his FJ40 for the first time with the re-powered 350 Chevy freshened up with a mild cam and a few other internal goodies. He was running a stock 305 Chev. Still a work in progress though. But he's stoked with it so far. Heat wrapping the headers today and installing a rear diff brace to stop axle twist under load. He should be driving out of the workshop later today.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AbagWHhJNk

[petefj40]

Adam's truck is a runner today.
Goes really well for a tight new motor. Those secondary's won't get any use till she's done a few miles.
After driving it. It's making me think I'll have to freshen up my LS1 with new pistons/rings this year.

[sig]

goog to see ya back pete .weve missed ya

[petefj40]

goog to see ya back pete .weve missed ya

Cheers sig.
I've been enjoying doing some of the work on my truck myself were i can. Some of it frustrating. My hands have had the odd bash tightening n loosing stuff. Yesterday I yelled out for help from Rach to hold something while I was slipping in the new radiator. The first attempt turned to shit through my own fault. But when it did, the anger in my face would of killed someone, not to mention the words that came out of my mouth.
Rach saw a side of me few have. BUT, all that aside, I was proud getting stuffed nailed without having to pay someone to do it.

It's good to be back in the Projects/Mods section.
I'll stay away from the off topic area.
I've learnt my lessons.

[Heath]

I'll stay away from the off topic area.
I've learnt my lessons.

Tui moment!!!

[petefj40]

I'll stay away from the off topic area.
I've learnt my lessons.

Tui moment!!!

Or, a "Minties" moment.

[Fakey]

goog to see ya back pete .weve missed ya

What he said Knew you wouldnt be able to stay away for long

[petefj40]

goog to see ya back pete .weve missed ya

What he said Knew you wouldnt be able to stay away for long

Cheers.
But keep it on topic boys.

What do you think of the brothers new re-power?
When I drove it today. It made me feel my motor needs new pistons n rings. It's using oil. Compression is down. Adam's new motor is perky as. Diff ratios and tires are the same. I think once his motor loosens up some and settles down it'll be stronger than my tired LS1.

[Fakey]

Twin turbo rebuild

[cool__bananas]

naa, if i was gona redo a high hp ls series motor i would stay with a factory ls7, still like 600hp+ and tourque is heaps more and lower revs than turbos

[petefj40]

naa, if i was gona redo a high hp ls series motor i would stay with a factory ls7, still like 600hp+ and tourque is heaps more and lower revs than turbos

I think you're right. High Newton Meters is where it's at isn't it? Lots of torque? Lots of grunt at low revs.
Adams cruiser has heaps of it. I'm real happy for him.

[wopass]

427 cubic inches of small block alloy goodness



•505 horsepower @ 6200 rpm
•475 lb.-ft. of torque @ 4800 rpm
•7000-rpm redline

[SMOKEY]

Hi Pete, good to see you in print , this is a hard place to stay away from.
Liking the look of Adams motor, who's Jet Boat or F5000 did he pinch the Flows from , there is certainly more room taking the pipes forward, I like it. My concern would be keeping the SML Block Cool which is a mission in it's self, do the twin electric pushers do the job ???.
And not to much DIY mechanicing, you will do me out of a job.
By the way,

NICE TRAILER,

FITZY.

[petefj40]

Hi Pete, good to see you in print , this is a hard place to stay away from.
Liking the look of Adams motor, who's Jet Boat or F5000 did he pinch the Flows from , there is certainly more room taking the pipes forward, I like it. My concern would be keeping the SML Block Cool which is a mission in it's self, do the twin electric pushers do the job ???.
And not to much DIY mechanicing, you will do me out of a job.
By the way,

NICE TRAILER,

FITZY.

Hi Fitzy.
Good to hear from.
Yeah this place is like a disease I recon. But adamant I'm not going to get so infected this time.

You're right, not much DIY on Adams truck.

The 2 push fans are turning on and off. They're cooling the motor, no problems there.
But what Adam's found is. Even with a heat shield protecting the master cylinders for the brake and clutch, the fluid is still bubbling over. Also, the top of the bonnet is that hot you could fry an egg on it.

He hasn't heat wrapped the headers (where I thought he was) or HPC coated them. But, i think even if he did, they'd still be to hot.

Hey, the headers came with the motor. So the cost of the setup wasn't big. But he's going to sell them and get another set made heading below the motor.
This time he'll get a twin three inch system made up simular to mine. I think it'll not only be cooler under the bonnet but the motor will breath better to. Two 3inch pipes into one 3inch pipe out the back was just restricting it.

The headers weren't off a jet boat. Hayden made them up at his shop for a twin turbo system, that never got completed. But yeah, they'd be ideal for a jet boat.

[petefj40]

427 cubic inches of small block alloy goodness



•505 horsepower @ 6200 rpm
•475 lb.-ft. of torque @ 4800 rpm
•7000-rpm redline

Nice wopass.

But this year all I'm going to do is freshen up the motor with new pistons n rings. I'm not going to bother stroking it or supercharging it. I might look at some LS2 heads though. The heads on the LS2s are way more efficient than the LS1. And I know where I may be able to source them cheap.
I can't have Adam's truck being faster than mine for to long.

[kbjj]

Quick question... how did that anti-wrap bar with shackle work out on your rear diff? I'm toying with the idea for my Navara.

[petefj40]

Quick question... how did that anti-wrap bar with shackle work out on your rear diff? I'm toying with the idea for my Navara.

Worked out fine thanks.
His is the same design as mine.

[cool__bananas]

where can you get cheap ls2 heads? id like some haha

[petefj40]

Glad I hadn't done any decent skids lately.
I didn't know the track bar was in the condition it's in till today.
So it's getting the hell mod done to it tonight so it never breaks again.

[gary_in_nz]

hell mod?? is that 4140 solid shaft going in??

[petefj40]

hell mod?? is that 4140 solid shaft going in??

Nup. Wait n see. HRN are doing it.