Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
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- Truck Hore
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:26 am
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Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
Haven't had anything to do with beadlocks. But have stripped a couple of bolts in my time.
Agree M6 will strip easier than the M8 (fairly obvious really).
But if you strip the M6 you can drill it out and tap to M8. Get of jail free card and learn your lesson at the same time. You won't have the same chance starting with M8.
Would be worth having a small inch-pound torque wrench set aside for torqueing them up. Saved my butt a couple of times with M6 into alloy.
Agree M6 will strip easier than the M8 (fairly obvious really).
But if you strip the M6 you can drill it out and tap to M8. Get of jail free card and learn your lesson at the same time. You won't have the same chance starting with M8.
Would be worth having a small inch-pound torque wrench set aside for torqueing them up. Saved my butt a couple of times with M6 into alloy.
- Sadam_Husain
- Angry bird
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Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
depends on what size rings they have used if you can drill the bolts out to 8mm, none of mine have enough meat left to drill them out larger and the 6mm capscrew heads are pretty much up against the welds on the ring, any stripped threads need a nylock on the bolt to secure it
wider rings and 8mm bolts look really
but the wider rings also mean a whole pile more kg's of mud and shit to collect behind them as well 
wider rings and 8mm bolts look really



Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
Madaz wrote:skidmark wrote:on the subject of beadlocks, is it a worthwile upgrade to go to the m8 bolts vs the m6?
Doesn't really matter, just unnessary weight, go see tony at speedy line, he should have sets with both kickin around there somewhere
Just went and had a chat, he said the next set he's going to get done will get 8mm bolts just cause theirs less issues with the threads..
modified surf, hardly drive it seem to keep modifying it....
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
Just a couple of thoughts..............
If you use a M8 thread into a piece of 6mm steel, you are only getting 4.8 turns of thread verses 6 turns on a M6 thread.
A M8 nut is thicker than 6mm, so you might have to be careful that the certifer doesnt pick up on that, cause it may be a issue.
If you dont clean and lube the thread on the bolts before you undo them it will strip either size out.
Im a bit lazy when it comes to cleaning them and have only stripped about 5 holes in the last 4-5 years and I would have had them off at least a dozen times to change tubes, tires, and clean out the mud. They easy to repair though.
If you use a M8 thread into a piece of 6mm steel, you are only getting 4.8 turns of thread verses 6 turns on a M6 thread.
A M8 nut is thicker than 6mm, so you might have to be careful that the certifer doesnt pick up on that, cause it may be a issue.
If you dont clean and lube the thread on the bolts before you undo them it will strip either size out.
Im a bit lazy when it comes to cleaning them and have only stripped about 5 holes in the last 4-5 years and I would have had them off at least a dozen times to change tubes, tires, and clean out the mud. They easy to repair though.
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
Your right madaz, the outfit robmu got his beadlocks off, told me they go to an 8mm inner ring when using 8mm bolts
If you break it... build it stronger.
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
kbjj wrote:Your right madaz, the outfit robmu got his beadlocks off, told me they go to an 8mm inner ring when using 8mm bolts
Thats crazy making them that heavy............


Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
alternatively you can use 8mm bolts with nylock nuts, no problem with stripped threads just stick a new one in.
Of course they probably work best with flat plate style beadlocks as there is a lot more meat around the bolt hole.
flat plate also don't suffer from lip deformation on rocks like the traditional style do. mine have been smashed on rocks all the way thru Waitapheta and barely have a scratch on them.

Of course they probably work best with flat plate style beadlocks as there is a lot more meat around the bolt hole.
flat plate also don't suffer from lip deformation on rocks like the traditional style do. mine have been smashed on rocks all the way thru Waitapheta and barely have a scratch on them.

Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
I do like the nut and bolt idea, tomsoffroad has built some simalar. Lolyf, are yours made using 3 rings, two drilled and one for inner of bead to sit against?
If you break it... build it stronger.
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
kbjj wrote: are yours made using 3 rings, two drilled and one for inner of bead to sit against?
yes they are, and the bolts are a good idea I simply carry a handfull of spares on trips and don't have to worry about stripped threads in the actual rim.
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
LOLYF wrote:alternatively you can use 8mm bolts with nylock nuts, no problem with stripped threads just stick a new one in.
Of course they probably work best with flat plate style beadlocks as there is a lot more meat around the bolt hole.
flat plate also don't suffer from lip deformation on rocks like the traditional style do. mine have been smashed on rocks all the way thru Waitapheta and barely have a scratch on them.
Just curious has this style been approved by the LVVTA tech committee
I ask becouse the hobby car techinical manual (the builders version of the LVVTA rule book) is very specific about the style of road legal beadlocks and that is the style in Sadam's pic
This is my prefered style to build... just didn't think they were road legal
Cheers Reece
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
I haven't had mine certed but have several mates
useing the same wheels that have been certed.
useing the same wheels that have been certed.
Last edited by LOLYF on Fri Feb 22, 2013 8:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
LOLYF wrote:I haven't had mine certed but have several mate useing the same wheels that have been certed.
I haven't seen Jonos bead lock wheels up close, but I imagine that if the 5 degree bead angle is retained (requirement for cert) then getting the tyre on would be a total PITA. The LVVTA pictures are a guideline, meeting the requirements of the rules is what matters.
Another potential spanner in the works, having a cert doesn't make 'non-compliance' legal. I've seen 2 cases in the last several years where certifiers got it wrong, one was suspended, the other struck off.
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
LOLYF wrote:I haven't had mine certed but have several mates
useing the same wheels that have been certed.

Those of us who have been f'ing with vehicles long enough have seen stuff that shouldn't have been cert'd
I've also seen certs pulled

etc
If I do something for road it is by the book

Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
It cracks me up that when I did my own beadlocks and several sets for some other winch trucks, i had to letterstamp a torque rating for the beadlock bolts onto the rim. That was part of the lvvta paperwork.
Ive rarely seen that on any of the other beadlocks around?
Ive rarely seen that on any of the other beadlocks around?
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
Thinking of getting Mechanical External Beat-locks fitted to my wheels for SWB Safari running Simexs tubless.
Franklin Engineering in Hastings do them. Anyone got any feedback on them. Also any recommendations for anyone dong it in Auckland as may be easier, faster and save on freight etc.
Franklin Engineering in Hastings do them. Anyone got any feedback on them. Also any recommendations for anyone dong it in Auckland as may be easier, faster and save on freight etc.
- mudlva
- Hard Yaka
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Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
steel surgeon in manukau city
Re: Mechanical Beadlock Questions (road legal)
As an alternative:
We have Coyote Staun II internal bead locks coming from the US. They are similar to the old Staun internal bead locks, but have the deficiencies fixed. Pinched inner tubes and lack of side wall pressure were the 2 biggest deficiencies of the old Stauns, but not with the Coyote Staun II.
Coyote Staun II use the same basic installation process with a couple of changes.
Two big advantages of internal bead locks are: both beads are locked in place; and they are portable, ie damaging a rims doesn't require a new bead lock.
Pricing will be the same or less than mechanical bead locks.
We have Coyote Staun II internal bead locks coming from the US. They are similar to the old Staun internal bead locks, but have the deficiencies fixed. Pinched inner tubes and lack of side wall pressure were the 2 biggest deficiencies of the old Stauns, but not with the Coyote Staun II.
Coyote Staun II use the same basic installation process with a couple of changes.
Two big advantages of internal bead locks are: both beads are locked in place; and they are portable, ie damaging a rims doesn't require a new bead lock.
Pricing will be the same or less than mechanical bead locks.