Oil…oil…everywhere - Story of a Bleeding Samurai

[3.5Pajero]

So last month my lil zook started to drip oil on the nice new driveway - this steadily grew to the point where I started parking on the lawn and killed a huge patch of grass. Without looking too hard I told the wife it was probably the rear crank seal and ‘wellll..while it’s out I might as well do the clutch’.

Driving to work feeling good - new clutch, spigot and release bearings + a stupidly priced Suzuki original ‘directional’ rear crank seal and notice a trail of drips following me to the parking lot. Bugger!

- Track it down to what looks like a leaking distributor housing…New o-rings promptly installed..

Off to work...same trail of oil drips following me there. Grrr!

- Clean it all up and spot oil running out of the rear of the rocker cover - New cork gasket installed.

Off to work again and yup almost to be expected, a little wet patch waiting for me in the car park after work.

- Running out of things to replace, but this time it looks like sump is leaking, so last night pulled the sump of and replaced the old RTV sealant.

Drove home at lunch and noticed oil leaking from the fuel pump breather and the front of the engine - possibly front crank seal? Although this was only replaced a few months ago with the timing belt etc.

And then it hit me - there is just way to many leaks all appearing one after the other for it to be a coincidence! And the funny thing is the more leaks I fixed the worse the engine ran!

So now I’m guessing the crankcase has been pressuring up from too much blow-by? I figured that if I disconnect and plug the PCV from the plenum and run the rocker cover vent open that would offer the least resistance if it is in-fact overcoming the ability of the closed loop system to suck the blow-by out.

Drove back to work with the PCV plugged and it ran way better but the fuel pump is still leaking as is the front of the engine somewhere.

Fuel consumption also went through the roof after the engine started bleeding from every orifice.

So couple of questions:

Firstly: Am I even going down the right track?

Second: The fuel pump - I did a bit of reading which all said the fuel pump is worn out, but has anyone had problems with a leaky fuel pump that was caused by blow-by. As in - if I put a new pump in is it likely to leak as well until the blow-by is fixed?

Third: does anyone think this may have been compounded by using a ‘Diesel engine oil’ at the last change just before all this started (The oil was sitting around and the engine is a POS anyway - what’s the worst that would happen…). Is it possible the extra detergents in the oil cleaned some varnish off my old worn out engine and increased blow-by?

Fourth: anyone got good ideas for minimising blow-by on a stuffed old engine without wanting to strip it down and do rings etc just yet….

[Dirtydog]

You can get that stuff from the like of repco or super cheap that supposibly rejuivinates rings etc but dont know how well that works.

other option could be running thicker oil?

[zukmeista]

Just replace the fuel pump, the rubber seals inside deteriorate over time and can potentially let petrol enter the oil which is obviously very bad. I would change the fuel pump and do an oil change.

[Crash bandicoot]

I would start by replacing the PCV valve that relieve's the crank case pressure back to the inlet manifold. If you have used diesel engine oil the gunk it's removed will most likely be clogging that hose.

clearly the pressure build up is moving from the weakest seal to the next.

....as for the blow by, my grandfather used Braso, a little down the inlet used to hone the bores nicely...seemed to work on his cleveland v8....don't know about japas.

[bang-thud-thump]

Nuthin fixes worn rings except new rings

[nizute]

If you want to conferm its the rings get a leakage test done, and if you don't want to rebuild the engine someone will have a second hand motor for you to put in? then rebuild the old one in your spare time!

[Heath]

If the engine is dying maybe search for a 'big block' 1600 from a vitara/escudo. They drop in pretty simple (okay not just bolt in - needs a few adapters - but can be done at home) with a kit (Ben made them up wasn't it?).

If you go with the 8v engine I believe the manifolds all just bolt back on and you can use the old carb, belts, sump, etc (oil pickup needs modifying - but may be done in the kit). Some 8v came with throttle body injection but just remove it and bolt back on the carb manifold unless you want the hassles of ECU, new fuel pump etc.

If you go 16v then things are different (manifolds, EFI not carb so need ECU and fuel pump) but why not throw some extractors on (best to do this with the 8v as well - was an issue with the exhaust blocking due to poor design causing overheating and cracked heads between the exhaust valves.

The 8v carb is a step up and supposedly makes more torque than the 16v due to the size of the valves but the 16v makes more power. I doubt you would be upset with the increase of get up and go either way. This change of just 300cc really gets a small zook moving and doesn't put any additional strain on the driveline - well not much.

Just my few cents worth.

Heath

[3.5Pajero]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.
The Braso thing sounds interesting...I imagine it would work to an extent, but my engine would have to be blowing clouds of smoke so thick you can’t see behind you, and then I might have a go.

I’m pretty sure I found the root of my problems (other than a tired old motor of course!)
The vent baffle in the rocker cover was pretty badly restricted from 20 odd years of crap build-up. So I soaked it petrol for the night and gave it a good blow out and man what a world of difference!!!

- Engine now starts and idles from cold with just a little bit of choke.

- Takes off when cold without excessive coughing/farting and clutch riding.

- Did almost 100km into town and back yesterday and fuel consumption has dropped from 12-13l/100km to low 9’s!.

- No more smoky tail pipe.

- All oil leaks have stopped except for a weep from the fuel pump vent - so guess that answered my question. And thanks Zukmeister, I hadn’t thought about leaky diaphragms letting petrol into the motor! Scary thought. But a new one for $185!? Might be a few months before I can cough up the money so hope it holds up.

- I left the PCV plugged and just ran the rocker cover vent to the intake side of the air filter - (like cars used to be in the old days) Wont do much to suck fumes out except at wide open throttle. But it has also completely stopped engine over run - it would quite often run on for a couple of rotations, but now stops dead when I turn the key off.

- And I was actually able to maintain 100km/hr up a hill with a head wind in fourth gear! Stoked.

So for now I guess the 1.3 stays…I was starting to dream about 4AGE’s etc, but that will have to wait for another day…

[nizute]

just buy a electric pump (make sure its a low pressure one for carbs) off trademe for $80 and blank off the mechanical fuel pump hole.

[3.5Pajero]

What a good idea!! Sweet thanks for that. Do you need to run a return line with a restriction so the thing keeps pumping or do they just supply what is required and slow down/stall?

[nizute]

not normally ,depends on your setup is the fuel return from your carb or from the pump?

[UBZ]

standard fuel pump has the return line from the mechanical pump.
2 problems with electric pumps ,
1 . you know have an electrical device under the truck to go wrong.
2 . they can cause flooding in the carb if the float valve is not working quite right . ( normal for older Zuk carbs)

you can buy suzuki genuine rebuild kits for the mechanical pumps for about $80
easy job to do

[nizute]

most electric pumps are sealed units and normally mounted higher than your distributor so if your car gets wet its going to stop anyway.
And if your float isnt seating properly its going to flood anyway and if its a common problem fix your carb!
most aftermarket electric pumps are designed to cavatait when reaching pressure, it eliminates any oil leaks or fuel to oil leaks.

Anyway its what we do at work and on all the race cars we build, my 2c worth!

[UBZ]

the distributor is at the highest point in the engine bay in a Zuk. plus they are well sealed and generally don't have water issues .

most people mount electric pumps under the truck in the factory fuel filter location . meaning the electric pump is not having to suck fuel all the way to engine bay .

I had loads of nigly issues with the electric pumps that had been retro fitted to my Zuks .went back to the standard mechcanical pumps and no issues since .
the electric facet pump in my SJ would over pressurise the float bowel and flood the carb by forcing its way around the float valve before it reached cavitation pressure .

the electric facet pump on my LJ would cause hunting a idle ..
both had issues with steam affecting the pump when hitting water

IMHO why complicate a simple truck with more electrics . we're talking about 4wds here not race cars . but a electric pump is the easiest fix , if thus the way you want to do it

[nizute]

well i am not sure what brand pump you are buying but i would change brand, one question why would anyone mount a fuel pump under their truck ???? it doesnt hurt the pump to suck fuel because once it has pressure they hold it and as for over pressurising the float, most pumps are adjustable so you can match factory pressure!!!!

[nizute]

this would be a good one to try http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 686388.htm ,put a fuel pressure gauge on your pump and see what pressure you are running and get one to match!
Mount it on you fire wall not under your truck! and make sure you do your wiring properly and you shouldn't have any problems.

Your call but i think its worth a shot!

[zukmeista]

Yes but then you have the added hassle of making something up to cover the hole.

[nizute]

Well i can't speak for everyone but making a plate off the gasket isn't that hard.
And if he gets stuck he is more than welcome to send me a gasket and i will make it for free of charge.

[3.5Pajero]

Good arguments from both sides..thanks for the info guys.

I tied a rag around it to keep oil from going everywhere. Problem not quite solved - but at least the driveway stays clean.

I kind of like the idea of rebuilding the pump thats on it, im guessing a suzuki dealer should be able to point me in the right direction for that one UBZ? Not quite sure how to get the thing open without stuffing it though? looks like it's all swaged together at the joint..

Also might have a ring around and see it anyone does mech pumps cheaper than trademe. And if all that fails..then will probably have a go at the electric route..

[UBZ]

http://suzistore.com.au/onlinestore/four-wheel-drives/lj-4x4/lj-4x4-lj80/fuel1956900166/PUMP-KIT-FUEL-2424-detail.html

this I the kit I used . suits the muikini factory pump.

you should just be able to undo the bolts around the perimeter and the pump comes apart .

[3.5Pajero]

Bugger yeah my one looks like this..I guess the ones with the ring of bolts was from a time before we just threw things away?

[nizute]

yea we don't get to fix much anymore its all parts replacment, and i hope you didn't think i was saying not to reuse a mechanical pump they both are just as good as each other and both have cons, in the end its up to what you are doing and what you want to use!
In a competition car i would always go electric, the adjustability and speed of replacement is unbeatable!
Mechanical pumps are good too but we have found in the last few years the price has skyrocketed from around $60-90 to about $160-240 depending on model.