Take the front driveshaft off and drive.

Wouldn't that make them compatible with TJ 4.0l engine as well?

Bit of an update, long weekend was very helpful. Installed a tow hitch. It sit just level with the muffler/exhaust and does not stick out in the back to cause hindrance. Tow hitch.jpg Tow hitch 2.jpg Tongue is removable, I was just looking at how it fitted together. I have the factory wiring loom ...

Admins, make this a sticky. A lot of good info in here on the subject.

https://www.gowarn.com/warn-winches/winch-tips.aspx Double pull self-recovery halves the weight being pulled, not double the pulling power of the winch. Pull power is fixed by design and strength of the winch itself. Double pull will allow a multiplier effect of using the same pulling power but ...

Can the roll be divided up between people here? If it's genuine stuff.

Thanks for the advice - my truck is a 2003 Grand Cherokee CRD. From what I understand I need to intercept the signal from the ABS sender. I'll search and see what can be found. I know one solution is for the dealer to reflash the PCM with new tyre size. But whether dealers in NZ do that is what I ...

What Jeep is it? If it's a TJ, a simple gear picks up speed from transfer case. Grand Cherokees are different.

Superlift make a correction unit that I used in the past. Very easy and accurate.

bagal wrote:This one on TM http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 900112.htm

Off topic. Start a separate thread

If you get a nice clean TJ that's not been molested, you'll have a fair chunk of money leftover for mods you want to do. TJs are great with great aftermarket support.

OK, thank you for that. Next question, are the front recovery points part of the ARB bumper? ARB told me that recovery points had to be fixed to the chassis due to the air bag "cans". My JK had no crush cans from the factory. Those hoops at the bottom of the front bar are part of the bar.

Only driven a Sport. Road drive around town only so not really much of a drive. Have also driven a Sport Unlimited for a longer test drive. Would a road drive of a Rubicon show much difference from a Sport? Could drive a Rubicon 4 Unlimited. Would that be a fair comparison? Re a (presumably ...

Bagal, have you test driven either?

You would be wrong to assume that. There are model accessory and gearing options packages that are agreed by FCA for Australia and NZ markets. Build sheet states which market it was designed for from the factory.

bagal wrote:Hi there
With that ARB rear bar, how do you incorporate a towbar?
bagal

Tow bar fits to the cross member just like before. ARB bar is designed around it. They are separate items.

Final ratio would depend on transmission (auto and manual have different ratios), diffs (some non Aus/NZ designated Rubicons come with 3.73 ratios not 4.10), and transfer case (2.72 for sport and 4.10 for Rubicon). Test drive both variations and see what talks to you. As for Singapore new imports, I ...

i don't know where your talking about, but surely there isn't a Waitawheta Track at the end of Tairei Road and a Waiawheta Track at the end of Tairei Road both in the Waikato. :? even i worked out its the same place. :shock: :roll: Sure, hindsight smartness after reading Tony's post. Did you know ...

derk wrote: if the "t" is missing from "Waitawheta Track" you wouldn't know what track they are referring to?

And where does it say Waitawheta Track in the original post?

coxsy wrote:oh if typed in a pissed off mood , or in a short space of time, spelling is the last thing need to be complained about your not thick you know the track he's refering to

No I don't, unless it's proper name is used.

PeterVahry wrote:It might help if the area name is correctly spelt... it is Waitawheta Track... not Waiawheta Track.

It does help big time, as now I understand where it was coming from.

Closed tracks are to be respected, there generally is a good reason for closure.

slidenyo wrote:was a fairly convoluted message floating around facebook.
does nzfwda have a set format for track closure notices?
post was to auckland 4wd club an was starting to read like mills an boon.

Do you have a reference to the message on Facebook or wherever?

17 is the new 16, and 16 is the new 15. Mostly new 4x4s are moving towards 16/17 inch rims so that bigger brakes can be fitted with more powerful engines.

Did it stall? Or kept running witha vacuum? If kept running then sucking air in from the joints or the air box.

If air can get in, so can water.

12V winch draw at full load for 9,500 lb winch is more like near 400 amps, not 100....

Reddish orange marks are probably from the rust and corrosion of the metal battery tray. Battery acid by itself would not cause that. When the acid leaked, it took metal with it.

Can you not just park something on top of it on the day of inspection?

Gardengnome wrote:From what Big has mentioned with an acid based product for cleaning concrete I'm thinking your stain is more than likely the opposite. A clean spot on a dirty driveway.

If so your options would be dirty up the spot or clean the rest of the drive.

I think this as well.

ARB compressor might be able to be rebuilt. Seen a few rebuilding kits on eBay, but it depends on what model you have.

Acid in the battery would be sulphuric acid to start. If that is what left stains on the concrete, how are you expecting it to remove the stains by sulphuric acid?

I know what CRI is. The fact is that halogens will probably give you the closest to natural light in driving application (90+ CRI). However, my point is that not all LED driving lights are the same. More expensive sealed ones like JW Speakers and others are purpose built with projector and LED ...

It's not a case of putting any LED in and they give problems with depth perception. A lot depends on the colour temperature of the light. Some cheap Chinese lamps are 6,000k range, which is bright and white to be great from one perspective but it's not suitable for night driving for long. I believe ...